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Here's a summary of what we've found to be the most important tips in caring for microfiber.
When high quality microfiber (that is, typically more than 200,000 threads/square inch) is treated well, it should last for several years and hundreds of washings.
Microfiber Care Tips:
Ideally and when possible, wash new microfiber before use. This will remove any loose lint/particles that may be in the cloth during processing, etc. If this isn't possible, often times a good shake will do the same or nearly the same.
Do not use bleach, ever.
Do not use fabric softener, ever. (including both liquid fabric softeners and "dryer sheet" fabric softeners)
Do not wash or dry with linty things, such as cotton towels. Doing so will free up a lot of lint from your cotton... which will then be stuck in your microfiber (often permanently or semi-permanently)
Only use liquid detergent! Powdered detergents often don't dissolve fully and the particles stick in your microfiber. These particles can then scratch your paint when you use your microfiber. This tip is especially important because it's a safety issue.
It's safe to machine wash at any temperature setting. It was previously thought by industry experts that hot water was a bad idea; however, we have since found out that even hot water is just fine and actually helps dissolve buildup. Cold wash water isn't as effective as warm or hot. From a safety standpoint, any temperature is fine. From an effectiveness standpoint, warm or hot temps are best.
Machine dry only on low or medium. Avoid using the high heat setting.
Ideally, use a detergent that is free of dyes and perfumes. Over time, these dyes and perfumes can cause a some buildup in the microfiber, thereby reducing its effectiveness. The microfiber-specific detergents work well too but we've found no real difference between these detergents and the perfume/dye-free regular laundry detergents.
If you have a lot of microfiber and/or you have some microfiber that you use for nasty stuff (engine and wheel cleaning, for example) along with your pristine microfiber (for paint), it's a good idea to wash them separately from each other. We have 2 bins in our bay... one for used grimy microfiber and one for used "nice" microfiber.
If over time you find your microfiber's effectiveness decreases a bit, despite following all of the above tips, you may have some wax/polish buildup. To fix this, do either one of the following:
Wash the microfiber for one full wash cycle normally. Then wash again, except this time open the lid and let it soak overnight. In the morning, close the lid and let the cycle finish. Good technique
Wash the microfiber for one full wash cycle normally. Then wash again, except do not use any laundry detergent. Instead, add 1/2 Cup of white vinegar to the load (assuming a medium to full size load). Run the cycle normally. Best technique
Again, your high quality microfiber should last you a very long time when properly cared for.
Types of Microfiber
Microfiber comes in a variety of weaves/designs/densities/etc. all of which optimize each type for different tasks.
Here are some guidelines:
For anything that touches paint, you should aim for at least 150,000 threads per square inch and 200,000 or more is ideal. This is primarily for increased performance, although can sometimes decrease your scratch risk. Discount or bulk microfiber is less than 100,000 threads per square inch, most often around 50,000 threads per square inch, as a rule. Premium microfiber is often more than 150,000 threads per square inch.
For wax/polish/quick detail removal, buffing, polishing, etc. you should use microfiber with long, plush, non-looped threads, as opposed to very short or looped threads (there are some exceptions though, i.e. the Platinum has looped threads on one side although they are longer and plusher than most looped threads and offer more muscle and structure for stubborn chemicals).
This will not only give you significantly better performance but will also help reduce your scratch/swirl risk, often by a large margin.
General Guide to Types and Common Uses:
Drying: Waffle-weave
Buffing (wax removal, etc): Plush, long threads, high thread count
Glass/Window: Smooth, non-plush
Non-paint (interior, etc): Anything except waffle-weave will usually work fine
-Heather
Last edited by Prima Car Care; 04-08-2008 at 05:33 PM.
How about wash temperature? Also which cycle (cottons, delicates, woolens, etc.)?
Good questions! I've edited the original post with information about wash temperature. Sorry for leaving that out. In summary though, any temperature is fine although warm and hot are most effective.
It doesn't really matter much which cycle setting you choose. In practice, most of us just use the "regular" setting.
Any idea about how to deal with iron-rich water with microfiber? We use Iron-Out with our whites ... can we use it with the microfiber towels? Thanks!
"Super Iron Out chemically changes rust and iron into a clear, soluble state that easily rinses away without scrubbing. It does not contain harsh or abrasive chemicals and is safe for white clothes and fiberglass, porcelain, or acrylic finishes. "
heather i have several of your waffle weave drying towel it seems that there effectiveness has deminished quiet a bit. They do not seem to be absorbing as much water any more. I have used them approx 25 washes. Any ideas?
__________________ 06' MCS CR/W, SPORT PKG, MOONROOF, 17" S-lites 17% Alta Classic, Gatorback, TSW Engine Damper, Dinan CAI w/K & N, Aero front Bumper, Aero Grills
I see you are in RI. I'll bet it is pretty cold this time of year. This could be a factor. MF is less absorbent when the water gets super chilly. This time of year I dry in the sun. You could also "prime" the towels with a squirt of Prima Slick or another QD.
Have you washed them in vinegar? You might give this a try. They could have picked up an abundance of detergent or wax residue. If you dry them in the dryer, they could have picked up dryer sheet juice from the drum of the dryer. The vinegar will clean them out nicely. Be sure to use the lowest water setting, but still cover the towels. Wash them on hot.
Finally, if you do dry them in the dryer, pick up a stash of the blue pokey dryer balls. I use five in a load. They really fluff the towels back up.
Hopefully one of these will do the trick. Please keep us posted.
I hate to admit it, but I need to ask what microfiber is used for. Don't laugh ... Drying the car? I've got several chamois cloths I wet and use to dry. Can you elaborate and compare if, indeed, they are both used for the same thing?
Live and learn. I'll be on the lookout for those as I await delivery ... Ya know, it's been so long since I've been actually excited about a car. The chamois cloths I have probably go back 30 years. Who knows? They may have dry-rotted by now ... But, I'm actually looking forward to washing a car, again. Need to readup in this thread
An excellent idea!! The state-of-the-art has changed a bit, and if you know the right stuff to get you'll save money by doing it right the first time (ask me how I know). Your MINI will thank you, too. There are a variety of approaches to wax/finishes...but basic good washing/drying technique is pretty much agreed upon.
Live and learn. I'll be on the lookout for those as I await delivery ... Ya know, it's been so long since I've been actually excited about a car. The chamois cloths I have probably go back 30 years. Who knows? They may have dry-rotted by now ... But, I'm actually looking forward to washing a car, again. Need to readup in this thread
Do yourself a big favor, use those old chamois cloths for wiping the dipstick when you check the oil
Microfiber comes in a variety of weaves/designs/densities/etc. all of which optimize each type for different tasks.
Here are some tips:
For anything that touches paint, you should aim for at least 150,000 threads per square inch and over 200,000 is ideal. This is primarily for increased performance, although can sometimes decrease your scratch risk. Discount or bulk microfiber is less than 100,000 threads per square inch, most often around 50,000 threads per square inch, as a rule. Premium microfiber is often more than 150,000 threads per square inch.
For wax/polish/quick detail removal, buffing, polishing, etc. you should use microfiber with long, plush, non-looped threads, as opposed to very short or looped threads (there are some exceptions though, i.e. the Platinum has looped threads on one side although they are longer and plusher than most looped threads and offer more muscle and structure for stubborn chemicals).
This will not only give you significantly better performance but will also help reduce your scratch/swirl risk, often by a large margin.
Here's a general guide of types and their uses:
Drying: Waffle-weave
Buffing (wax removal, etc): Plush, long threads, high thread count
Glass/Window: Smooth, non-plush
Non-paint (interior, etc): Anything except waffle-weave will usually work fine
I ordered your sample pack last weekend and will check out the different types when they arrive! Still not production date, so it may be a while before I get the opportunity to use them ...
Well I got some new microfiber towels today, and they are great. I have always just had the free ones that come with stuff. There is a huge difference and I know you all know this already.
I am going to continue using my chamois for now since it is basically new, it will just be fore preliminary drying, but the microfiber will be used for everything else.
Once the chamois is old or too dirty to risk it on the paint it will be my dirty job cleaner, since they do work well for that stuff at least.
Nikki ... '07 MCS JCW+
(actually, Nick covered for me while I was out of town on that one... but I don't mind stealing credit 
)
