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I have a 2005 Jet Black MCS and I recentlly bought the Prima Polishing Bundle. I think this might be too aggresive for my car at this point. I have some swirl marks and a few chips from track days and highway driving...My question?
Where do I start? my thougts were to go..
1. CUT: only on areas that have chips(front bonnet,right side by rear wheel where I had a little rash from a gravel trap)
2. SWIRL: was thinking all over the car but not sure if needs to be done everywhere.
3. FINISH and AMIGO: I think will be ok all over after step 1 and 2?
Does this sound right or should I just forget this and go a little easier on my paint .. AMIGO, EPIC, HYDRO & SLICK
Also is there a thread with detail info on using the prima products process somewhere?
Thank you
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It was great meeting some NAM'ers at MTTS Boston!!
Polishing won't do anything for your chips... that requires touchup paint / clearcoat - perhaps with langka. You probably don't need Cut at all... IMHO it's really only needed for REALLY poor paint - old, severely oxidized, etc. Or very hard paint with heavy swirls and light scratches.
Just using Swirl and Amigo will make a ton of improvement. You probably don't need Finish either.
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I'm Paul, The car is Blimey--- BlimeyCabrio's Blog--- 2006 MCSCa w/lotsa mods and Union Jacks
Ten-time Dragon Veteran - Occasional Trackrat - Extreme Twisty Addict - Rhymers Ferry Road Fanatic
If the latter, I had great success using Swirl on the Orange LC pad. The white pad didn't do the trick on the tough areas... bonnet, boot, and the top of the side panels that are curved (they tend to pick up a lot of swirls).
BTW, I have an 05 JB MCSC so it's a good comparison for you.
Always work from least to most when using polish. Start with a 2 or 3 ft square and use Finish on a white pad. Work it well and then wipe and inspect your results. If not what you want step up to Swirl on a white pad and repeat. Then if need be use Swirl on an orange pad. Like above I really doubt that you will need to use Cut. When you find the result you are after then do the rest of the car. Save Amigo as you last step on a white pad before using Epic on a black pad and it will help Epic bond and fill any minor swirls you may have missed.
THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR FEEDBACK..I am thinking about doing everything by hand this first time.. It's there anything I should be aware of when going by hand. TIPS pls.. I am very good with power tools but i am a little old fashion when it comes to messing with my car or bike.. I rather take more time doing it by hand than messing it up with the PC..
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It was great meeting some NAM'ers at MTTS Boston!!
THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR FEEDBACK..I am thinking about doing everything by hand this first time.. It's there anything I should be aware of when going by hand. TIPS pls.. I am very good with power tools but i am a little old fashion when it comes to messing with my car or bike.. I rather take more time doing it by hand than messing it up with the PC..
I am like you with power tools, start by hand and only use power tools when needed. If you have swirls you need to use a PC.
I have a BRG MCS which shows swirls less than Jet Black but also shows swirls. I tried getting them out by hand and just got tired.
I got the PC, and M80, took my time and the first try turned out great. Much less work and much better results. Not perfect as I am still learning but so much quicker, easyer and better.
It really is SOOOOO much easier with the machine... if you haven't already, hook up with your local club and ask around - I'll bet someone has a polisher you can borrow - you may just have to supply your own pads...
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I'm Paul, The car is Blimey--- BlimeyCabrio's Blog--- 2006 MCSCa w/lotsa mods and Union Jacks
Ten-time Dragon Veteran - Occasional Trackrat - Extreme Twisty Addict - Rhymers Ferry Road Fanatic
There is nothing to fear about using a Random Orbital buffer. It's pretty much idiot-proof. (no offense to those who use it whom aren't idiots, including myself) It makes sure the pad doesn't continue to spin on the same spot for any length of time, making it nearly impossible to damage your paint.
Once you use one, you'll NEVER polish your car again without one.
If you have questions about using one, ask away... there's hundreds of people on this board who have used one.
Not just that, but I am pretty sure that Swirl and Finish are not really intended to be used by hand at all. And I can't imagine that Swirl by hand would be very fun.
You can use Swirl by hand, and if you can get your arm going at the same speed as a PC you should get similar results. Really though, you can do it by hand but it really is taxing and not much fun.
After all this helpfull info I am going to get help from a friend this weekend..He s got all I need and some good experience... all he needs now it's a mini..Thank you all!
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It was great meeting some NAM'ers at MTTS Boston!!
On the subject of power buffer......is the consensus that Porter Cable is the one to go with? and if I have a 2 month old car that I have already waxed, Hydroed and is garage kept in Florida how important is a power buffer?
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'07 BRG/W MCSa White bonnet stripes & mirror caps, Premium, English Oak, Bridgespoke
Porter Cable seems to be the standard. Ultimate Detailing Machine, Meguiar's G100 and Griot's are alternatives. If I were buying one now, I'd definitely look at the Griot's with the handle on top. It seems more ergonomic than the PC side handle or not using any handle.
To polish by hand or machine, check out the OctaneGuy/ShowCarDetailing.com DVD for proper technique advice. It's very helpful to watch someone do it right!
Here's a pic of the Griot's machine:
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A car is safe in a garage, but that is not what cars are for.
Pam, you probably don't need a buffer YET. That is, unless your dealership washed the car for you on delivery, in which case, you probably need one ASAP.
Whenever you feel it's time to polish out your swirls and minor surface scratches (I did my first major detailing when ours were 7 months old), do yourself a favor and invest in a random orbital buffer. And yes, Porter Cable seems to be the preferred buffer around here and it's what I bought.
You'll never spend $125 (IIRC) on your car in a better way, I assure you.
thanks Bee for the recommendation and links...appreciate it Also thanks CR&&&&! Thinking about maybe asking for one for Xmas as I have already treated my MINI to quite a bit of stuff already. Had dealer install driving lamps yesterday.$$$$$
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'07 BRG/W MCSa White bonnet stripes & mirror caps, Premium, English Oak, Bridgespoke
I took the handle off the side and put my hand on top of the machine. Very easy and comfortable.
That's what I did the last time, too. After doing so, I definitely would want to try the Griot's. I think it would be more comfortable to use that handle which is nicely located right over the pad. Here's what Griot's says sets theirs apart from others:
Quote:
The Griot's Garage Random Orbital spins at higher orbits per minute, has a smaller polishing pattern, a rheostat speed dial for polishing and waxing speeds between 4,000 and 7,000 orbits per minute, an internal fan to cool off the backing plate (thus, no heat build-up in our pad, or on your paint), a higher torque motor to eliminate stalling, an ergonomic top handle, and an easy-to-reach side on/off switch, plus your hands will enjoy much less vibration from the orbital! Enjoy the best!
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A car is safe in a garage, but that is not what cars are for.
With the Porter-Cable 7336SP polisher, fears of polishing are a thing of the past. Unlike circular buffers and lesser-quality random-orbital polishers, the 7336SP is easy to use and safe on your paint- even for the amateur. This is a dual-action polisher: it oscillates in a random, orbital fashion, preventing excessive heat buildup. This polisher will not burn your paint. The 3.7 amp motor includes a variable speed mechanism which allows you to control the speed between 2,500 OPM and 6,000 OPM. An important component of this tool, which separates Porter-Cable from most of its competition, is the removable counterweight. The counterweight is located in the rotating shaft and maintains balance while you polish. Unlike the Porter-Cable 7424 polisher, the 7336SP comes with a specially-balanced counterweight which is required as you switch to denser/larger non-OEM pads. The flexibility of the 7336SP allows for a variety of pads up to 6 ½ inches. It comes with a white polishing pad that works well at minor oxidation, swirls and light scratches. While excellent at polishing, this pad is also soft enough to be used for finishing and glazing. This tool is so easy and safe you will regret not having added it to your detailing supply box sooner. Finally, a polisher you don’t have to fear!
Well it looks like you would need to use a handle on the Griot's machine because it is so honkin long. The PC is shorter & can easily be easily held with one hand if you desire
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Tact is for people who aren't witty enough to be sarcastic...
I think the PC, UDM, Meguiar's and Griot's are all based on the same chassis, but with brand-specific features.
When Griot's mentioned the stronger motor and faster orbitting, I figured it was a remodeled Ultimate Detailing Machine, but Griot's spins faster. I don't think anyone else has the cooling fan that Griot's does either.
Anyway, everyone should shop around and see which one looks best to them. (Maybe someone would like to buy my PC, then I'll buy a Griot's and let you all know if I like it better!)
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A car is safe in a garage, but that is not what cars are for.
It makes sure the pad doesn't continue to spin on the same spot for any length of time, making it nearly impossible to damage your paint. 
Also thanks CR&&&&! Thinking about maybe asking for one for Xmas as I have already treated my MINI to quite a bit of stuff already. Had dealer install driving lamps yesterday.$$$$$
Let's just say they both have a good deal of it.
