Wax for new R56

[amazonracer]

My mini is 1 week old. Should I wax to protect it even more or is there a wax job from the factory or something similar. I also purchased Simoniz car wash solution that says no need for drying and will not spot. Is this really true. This was a fairly inexpensive at Pep Boys. I also bought a spray bottle of Meguiars quick interior detailer cleaner for all surfaces (no leather). Will these products do fine until I get the good stuff. Want to get the Hydro product but seems expensive and I have to order. Anything similar to hydro that I can buy locally? Thanks for any input. I'm tired already and have not started to clean

[MLPearson79]

Hydro is pretty unique stuff. There are a few things out there that SAY they are "wax as you dry", and I used one when I was out of town and had no Hydro on hand, and it was a disaster.

As far as wax...you probably should wax it when you get a chance. Generally the stuff the dealers detail with is not great quality or lasting power. The first thing I did when I got my car was strip it down and start over.

The Simoniz wash...I can't speak to. Wash is generally wash but if it's something "over the counter", I tend to stay away unless it's Meguiar's. But there are a lot of people that use a zillion kinds of wash; as long as it has decent lubricity and glides over the paint it should be fine. Drying without spots...I'll believe it when I see it That generally has very little to do with wash soap and more to do with highly filtered water. You'll have to let us know how it goes.

I would recommend though, if you're going to get into really keeping it spotless and looking great, you check out some of the premium brands if you can afford them. Lots of people around here like Prima, Zaino, P21s, Meguiar's...I'm sure there are more.

As far as inexpensive and not having to order online, I'd go with Meguiar's stuff if someone took away my internet and made me shop at AutoZone Except that IMO the wax is nowhere as good as Epic (and the spray-on wax is EVIL! ). The rest of their stuff works fine.

[jw34]

I've been reading a lot in this forum and it has been eye opening and somewhat overwhelming. So I guess maybe this is a good thread to post a noobie question.
With my new Mini coming should I use Epic after the first wash to get a good start on the finish? If I do this should I use Hydro also or if I use Hydro do I need to use Epic? I'm a little confused on what each do. Are they both waxes? Are they used together?

Thanks.

[minimk3]

Here'y my suggestion for maintaining the paint on your MINI.

Ask your dealer not to wash the car on delivery day. Most of the swirls you see on brand-new cars happen when the dealer preps the car for you.

Arm yourself with the correct tools for washing and polishing. You don't have to spend that much initially. Buy clay, 2 wash buckets, lambswools mitt, Car shampoo, tire brush, MF drying towel, quality foam pad applicator and quality MF towels for polishing.

Apply Epic after you complete the clay process. Do not apply Epic unless you complete the clay process. If you skip this process then you are just sealing-in contaminants on the paint surface.

Hydro is a Wax-as-you-dry product. Applying it by itself works but doesn't last that long. If used on a Car with Epic then you are basically boosting the effectiveness of Epic. It gives you that extra "pop" in the paint.

Originally Posted by jw34

I've been reading a lot in this forum and it has been eye opening and somewhat overwhelming. So I guess maybe this is a good thread to post a noobie question.
With my new Mini coming should I use Epic after the first wash to get a good start on the finish? If I do this should I use Hydro also or if I use Hydro do I need to use Epic? I'm a little confused on what each do. Are they both waxes? Are they used together?

Thanks.

[LynnEl]

Originally Posted by minimk3

You don't have to spend that much initially. Buy clay, 2 wash buckets, lambswools mitt, Car shampoo, tire brush, MF drying towel, quality foam pad applicator and quality MF towels for polishing.

Of course, that's a matter of opinion. Just to give the uninformed an idea of it, that's about $100, for "typical" quality stuff.

[minimk3]

I am sorry I forgot to mention that point. Well, I guess that's the price you have to pay for getting it(detailing) right the first time.

Originally Posted by LynnEl

Of course, that's a matter of opinion. Just to give the uninformed an idea of it, that's about $100, for "typical" quality stuff.

[jw34]

Originally Posted by minimk3

Hydro is a Wax-as-you-dry product. Applying it by itself works but doesn't last that long. If used on a Car with Epic then you are basically boosting the effectiveness of Epic. It gives you that extra "pop" in the paint.

Thanks for the info.
So then could Hydro technically be used without the clay and Epic? But I get the idea that the 3 would be even better. Is that right? I just wasn't sure that Hydro could be used on its own or always had to be used in conjunction with Epic or something else.

[kenchan]

Originally Posted by minimk3

Hydro is a Wax-as-you-dry product. Applying it by itself works but doesn't last that long.

Hydro lasts over 4 weeks... that's longer than ICE, longer than NXT...
longer than most off-the-shelf waxes. that's DAMN LONG for a
spray on wax. considering i wash my cars every week, every
other week at minimum, there is always very good protection on the
paint. there's really no reason to wax if you continue to use Hydro
like me.

[minimk3]

I agree Ken. It's just a little bit shorter than Epic.

Originally Posted by kenchan

Hydro lasts over 4 weeks... that's longer than ICE, longer than NXT...
longer than most off-the-shelf waxes. that's DAMN LONG for a
spray on wax. considering i wash my cars every week, every
other week at minimum, there is always very good protection on the
paint. there's really no reason to wax if you continue to use Hydro
like me.

[LynnEl]

I mostly agree with ML and, I add that I am still (mostly) NOT OCD and not at all interested in tunring keeping my car clean into a major past-time. That is one of the reasons I love Hydro. Using it just entails drying your car a little more carefully. And it looks great!

[MLPearson79]

I love Hydro. I use it after every wash.

That said, I also have a coat of Epic on my MINI at all times. I like knowing I have something on there that will last 6 months, and I also like the boost that Hydro gives it. But you can do just one or the other; many people do.

[LynnEl]

I plan to Epic as soon as the temp hits 80 or lower.

[MLPearson79]

I would clay either way. If you don't, you're just sealing whatever contaminants that are there under the wax, whether it be Epic or Hydro.

[MLPearson79]

4 weeks, vs 6 months??

[MiniMaybee]

Let's not start this again ...

[MLPearson79]

I'm just sayin'!

[jw34]

Kids, kids. Don't make me stop this Mini.
All information is appreciated.

[MiniMaybee]

So amazon, I have surmised that you are new to detailing. I'm also guessing that you love your MINI enough to want to keep it clean (though how clean is always relative). So here are my suggestions:
As above, never let the dealer wash it either upon delivery or at service intervals. Their intentions are better than their technique.
Your MINI will probably have a dealer applied coat of natural wax (Carnauba) which you can leave until it leaves on its own (2 - 4 weeks) or you can remove it forcibly. I would recommend the latter by doing a wash using Dawn (plain'ol blue Dawn with no extras like antibacterial - unless your MINI is buggy - hand softener or scent). This will rid your MINI of the weak and degrading Carnauba.
Next, as above, get some clay and some lube (you can use the Dawn wash water if you so choose). You can find this at any auto parts store. Maq makes one as does Mothers & others. This is one product that you can choose not to be choosy. One note: If you drop it don't use it again on your paint. Break your clay in to half dollar size and get after it. There is plenty of info in the Detailing forum on claying.
After you have Dawn washed and clayed, you car is clean and ready for either polish or wax. If the dealer got to it before we did, then you may want to polish. I would recommend something like Prima Amigo (www.detailersparadise.com). It is easy to work by hand, has some cleaning abilities and it will help hide the swirls until you choose to get a Porter Cable Dual Action polisher (PC 7336 if I remember right). If you are not OCD enough to worry about swirls go right to the wax step. I would recommend a good quality synthetic wax like Prima Epic though there are many others.
After it is waxed take pictures and post them for us to cheer and ogle.
Now you are ready for daily, weekly or monthly maintenance. Two buckets for a wash - one with soap and one with clear water - and ideally grit guards in the bottom. Use a good quality lambs wool wash mitt and good quality (not Costco or Target ) microfiber towels to dry.
Then revel in the looks of envy as you exit your neighborhood.
You will probably sink deeper into OCD (LynnEl did and that was after he made fun of us - we showed him, and his wallet ) and you can ask more questions and read more opinions and try different things and do it more often and for longer until you are simply lost in OCD land with no possible hope for escape.
Most of all have fun and enjoy your quality time with your MINI.

[jw34]

Great info. One question about what you said above. Does the car need to be rinsed and dried after claying and before waxing?

[MiniMaybee]

Some wash after clay some don't. I did wash after clay, now I don't. I guess it depends on what you use for lube and how much residue is left on the car. When I used the wash water to clay I would follow that by just a water rinse to remove any remaining Dawn before starting the polish step. Now that I don't have any Carnauba wax on the car, I don't really use Dawn any more so I use 50/50 mix of Prima Slick and water to lube the clay. With this mix I'll just wipe down a panel after clay and call it good. Others will still insist on a rinse. Can't hurt. If you do rinse after clay be sure to dry since some polish is water based and would be cut by remaining water on the paint.

[OctaneGuy]

I never rinse after claying. Of course, I always follow claying with polishing, so any residue left behind will be polished away long before I get to waxing the paint.

Richard

Originally Posted by MiniMaybee

Others will still insist on a rinse. Can't hurt. If you do rinse after clay be sure to dry since some polish is water based and would be cut by remaining water on the paint.

[twin scroll]

CAN SOMEBODY STEP BY STEP: STRIPPING (DAWN), CLAYING (LUBE?), WAXING. THANKS FROM A NEWBY 2007 MCS

[MLPearson79]

Try this thread. It's long, but it has everything you need to know.

[cadfael_tex]

Others can do this better and agranger has a very thorough how to that is stickied. So here's mine twin scroll:

For full detail:
1) Wash with P21S Total autowash to strip off old wax (it is also great for bugs and engine detailing I'm told)

2) Clay - I get the meg's kit locally and the Meguires Quick Detailer in the marroon bottle is cheap and works well for this application

3) Apply Black wow to trim to clean and protect

4) Polish if need be with Swirl for swirl marks etc or Amigo if the paint isn't too bad but not perfect or you can forgo this step if your happy with your finish.

5) Wax with Epic and be sure to let cure for 24 hours before adding an optional second coat or washing again.

I highly recommend Octaneguys video from www.showcardetailing.com. It uses other products but the basics are there. If you can afford it I'd get a Porter Cable dual action polisher (PC for short). I debated and tried it both ways and it makes the wax and polish steps much easier but isn't a necessity.

Also, Octane guy has a video on youtube (sorry don't have the link) that details the two bucket wash method that is really excellent.

That's for the paint. For the Tires:
1) Wash (you can use either whats left from your wash bucket at the end or use the P21S if they are really bad)
2) Clay (use and old or dropped piece of clay if you have one because it's not as critical)
3) Apply wax to help keep them clean - I just got Wheelshield from Detailer's paradise but haven't had a chance to try it yet; it also cleans some too so thats a bonus.

For the interior:
1) Vacuum
2) Use Nero on the dash and other interior plastic (can be used mixed with water on the seats if you have leatherette)
3) Use slick or other QD on non-plastic interior trim (eg my alloy dash inserts)
4) If you have leather seats clean them with a good leather cleaner.

This is just mine and I'm sure I've missed something but it's a start.

[kenchan]

Originally Posted by cadfael_tex

That's for the paint. For the Tires:
1) Wash (you can use either whats left from your wash bucket at the end or use the P21S if they are really bad)
2) Clay (use and old or dropped piece of clay if you have one because it's not as critical)
3) Apply wax to help keep them clean - I just got Wheelshield from Detailer's paradise but haven't had a chance to try it yet; it also cleans some too so thats a bonus.

daiamn.... you clay your tires??!