Where on the car can i jack the front/rear to get jackstands under the car. I want to put jack/axle stands under the front jack point and under the rear jackpoints (between the wheel under door), how would i do that? My Hondas had factory front and rear jack points that made it easy to get stands under there.

How do you put the MINI on 4 jack stands to do work on it?

 

Your photo shows a R56 and I have only worked on R53s, but I'd doubt they are different in this respect. For both sides jacking onto 4 stands:
1. Use 2 racing jacks, coz I have them.
2. Place a piece of wood (I use 3/4"x6"x3", but it can be longer) on the jack.
3. Place the wood long-wise under the plastic cover over the weld-joint that runs longitudinally between the jack points.
4. Place it about 9" behind the front jack point. I usually get as close to the jackpoint as I can but still fit the jack stand under the jack point.
5. Raise one side enough to get the jackstands under the jack points.
6. You know when you have the exact location because the car rise level, front and rear.
7. If you are using only one race jack, then move to the other side and repeat.
8. Depending on how high you need the car, keep swapping sides until it reaches the sky...


Well, that's how I do it. Solid as a rock, done it dozens of times.

 

Same way here except I use about a 3' piece of wood handrail...

 

The car is so stiff that if you placed the jack on one of the jacking points and jacked it up the entire side will lift. Place a jackstand under the empty jacking point and remove the jack. Move it a foot and jack the car up with a piece of flat wooden block on the jack. and place another jackstand under the jacking point. Go to the other side and repeat.

 

ok that makes sense thanks.

 

Would some one be kind enough to post some pictures of the proper places?

Thanks!

 

Here's how I do it (with pics) on my R52

 

Nice pics. thanks

 

Thanks Paul. Either this or a small lift auto lift.

 

I have seen the above method done before but I have been very leery of jacking my car up from the rail between the jacking points. My GP may also be a little different because of the full under body paneling.
My solution to this problem is as follows.
I purchased two pieces of a 4"x4" pressure treated post that would span the distance between the two jacking points. Because the car is low under the side skirts I first jack the car up and put ramps under the front tires. This now gives me enough room to put the 4"x4"x5' centered on my jack and under both jacking points. I then lift the car with the jack in the middle of the 4x4 and put a jack stand under the 4x4 at each jacking point location. It is very secure when finished and I have only used the jacking points for lifting. This leaves the car sitting on jacking points, 4x4, and jack stands. This justs makes me feel better than jacking under the side skirts.
One other note. The last time I was doing this I had a small problem getting the car up and found my problem to be that the Harbor Freight floor jack had a galled front roller which prohibited it from rolling. Harbor Freight was kind enough to replace the jack. The first thing I did when I got the new one was to disassemble the roller and grease it. Be sure to check yours.
I hope this helps, Steve

 

Almost makes some thing like this worth getting. Would be handy for tire rotations, brake work, oil changes, even detailing.

Attachment 26604

 

That looks like what they use at some of the tire places. What is it called, and what does it cost?

 

That picture was from Derek Weaver Company. http://www.derekweaver.com/html/tx6lr.shtml

My friend has one. He paid about $1400, not sure where he got it though. It's really awesome. Considering a good motorcycle lift is about half that, it's a good price. The thing I really like about it was how flat it sits on the floor when not in use. Almost like it's not there. Only sits a few inches high. I'm seriously considering. In my garage I don't have room for it unless I park over it all the time. Might even be worth building a false floor to sink that into.

 

No good for exhaust work because of the cross members.

 

This is the one my friend bought. Same concept but different design. This one sits lower too, only 4" tall.

http://www.gesusa.com/ges4less/produ...category=58088

 

Hmm, interesting idea. Thanks for the links.

 

Those lifts are really cool - and do go higher than the jack, which is a plus. But I can do just about anything under mine on the stands (including some exhaust stuff) and get it up in 2 minutes for under $200 in gear, and it all stores out of the way when not in use...

 

Are you using a low profile jack or does a standard one fit under with a 4x4? I suppose if you did the rear of the car first, you'd have more clearance to start with up front, making it fairly accessible from the side or rear.

I took a look at mine and don't feel real comfortable jacking it up under the side skirt. We'll see though. I'll have to start lifting there and see how the car reacts.

 

Minidrivr
Yes I am using a low profile jack from Harbor Freight. Because of the low side skirts on the GP I first jack the car up from the front jacking point and place ramps under the front tires. The low front bumper will not allow me to drive onto the ramps so that is why I do it in this manner. After the front tires are on ramps I then have plenty of room to place the 4x4 onto the floor jack and under the jacking points. A while back I have read posts of some people having problems with jacking using just a board under the side skirts and not on the jacking points. That is what prompted me to come up with this method.
Steve

 

I have NOT attempted to jack an R56 with the 2x4 method... and haven't looked at one closely enough to know whether it's a good idea to try... I agree that I would NOT use that method for a GP or a car with the aero skirts...

 

Blimey, etal... The 2 x 4 with floor jack works fine on my R56. I do not have a low profile floor jack, just the old (very old) 3 ton standard.

I swapped out my winter wheels and tires last week using this method, but I did not use jack stands, just each side at a time.

Works fine, less than 1 hr total time involved for the swap. It took more time to clean the Webbies for winter storage.

 

be careful when you're putting the car on the jacks, i tried to keep the car on the jacks ( i knew it was a big no no but my car needed an oil change and i didnt' have a pair of jack stands) and as i was lowing the jacks, my whole car fell over to the right side. It was about 8 in es off of the floor and it scared the crap out of me. Jack stands and the correct points are definitely of the utmost importance. Thank God i wasn't underneath the car when it fell off.

 

That's good to know since I'll be painting the hubs and calipers this weekend!

 

Another reason I like that lift. It has as safety lock that prevents it from going down.

 

The 2x4 under the sill worked great with my R56.

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