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Ι guess i shoudn't have said anything... My gearbox is having an issue. When i am shifting very fast from 1st gear 7000rpm to second i hear gears rubbing, if u get me... In slow gear changes it is never doing that, neither in low and mid rpm. Is this a sign that my gearbox is going?
Sounds like your 1-2 syncro is nearly worn out. To extend the life of it, don't do any more hard 1-2 shifts. Better yet, don't do any hard or fast shifts at all. Boring, I know, but the transmission could go a lot farther if you baby it... hopefully. I don't know the service history on your MINI of course, but a gearbox fluid change wouldn't hurt either.
Are you guys not running the MINImania/UK box anymore....Want to get rid of it???
Chad
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Supercharger delete mod,Toolio's P/P head matched to OBX header, ARP head studs, Crower Camshaft, "S" throttle body and intake with Silicone tube, Milltek Catback, Engine Dampner, JCW Software,Eibach Springs and S-bars, IE Adj. Camber plates, Alta Rear CA, SS brake lines,Super Blue BF,Flik Wheels,M7 STB, Louvered hood for air intake
my 3rd has just over 6700 miles and my 1-2 syncro is shot every shift higher then 5,000rpms it grinds. anyone past there 3rd transmission because it looks like im going to be on #4
__________________ 2004 Mini Cooper: Sports Package, Yellow & Black MODS: K&N SR intake, Cross drill & Slotted Rotors, EBC yellow stuff pads, Strut tower brace, No back seat, No spare, OBX header, High flow cat, Muffler Delete, 2003 6 speed, Stage 2 clutch, 12lb Fidanza lightweight flywheel. SOON: Springs Later: Power ... Turbo?
my 3rd has just over 6700 miles and my 1-2 syncro is shot every shift higher then 5,000rpms it grinds. anyone past there 3rd transmission because it looks like im going to be on #4
What are you doing to those poor transmissions?! It sounds to me like a user issue - I've (only) got 35k on my original transmission and it gives me zero problems.
Sold my 03 Cooper to a Nissan Dealer. 6 mos & 3K miles later (at 31k) it was at the dealer's for a new transmission. That darned troublesome shift to reverse that "they all did" went kerflooey.
__________________ GP0101 -- Stanley, MORE THAN THE SUM OF HIS PARTS.
OK...with all the crap I talk about my Midlands being PERFECT...went out the door tonight.... . Here's how it went down:
I was messing around following a few other Mini's getting back onto the freeway and (I think) I powershifted into 3rd and then all of the sudden I redline to 7K (no fuel cutoff) and going nowhere. Did this a few times to no avail. Then I try 3rd and 4th and it feels like its in neutral (no resistance-felt like cables were discod). I then try 5th and it works. So did 1st and 2nd. So I was like I could handle that. Then all of the sudden I get stopped at a light and when I took off I tried to shift into 2nd and EVERYTHING was locked out BUT 2nd gear. Something has bound....either the cables, tower or inside the tranny. So instead of paying a $300 tow....I drove it 45 miles back to my house in 2nd gear... That was a fun trip! 40 MPH with no exhaust and no interior.... . So, who knows what I actually did to it. There is no grinding (like a synchro) or anything else but its bound... . Im gonna throw it up on stands tomorrow and pull the transmission (after I replace the BMWs blown tire)... . I will let you all know what I find. But, If I need a new tranny...I already am going the 6-spd route...... Oh and BTW...I rape my transmission everyday. I dont blame the Midlands for my errors. I think it would have lasted over a 100K if I wasnt so rough on it. FYI
I feel ya guys, I have 124,000 on my 2003 MINI Cooper. I am on the third tranny, second flywheel, and third clutch!!!! I HATE IT LOL! I have about 35,000 on my third tranny. About 2 weeks about I noticed I had friction in my shifter when only shifting upwards. So I brought my car to a Euro shop to get it checked out. They said both of the shifter cables were going bad. (one is worse than the other) Is this about the time and mileage of when the shifter cables go bad? They said the craptasic Midlands tranny should be fine! You guys think I should go ahead and change my tranny fluid to the Redline tranny fluid while at it?
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Koni yellows, H-sport springs, H-sport rear control arms, powerflex front control arm bushings, OMP lower front strut brace, Ireland fixed camber plates, Alta 22mm rear sway, Colbolt carbon fiber rear strut bar, 15x6.5 Rota group N's (12 lbs), 205/50/15 Bfgoodrich G-force Sport tires, Magnaflow cat-back, intake filter, Spec stage 1 clutch, Powerflex upper and lower motor mounts...MORE!! IT'S JUSTACOOPER!!
lol i wouldn't trust that the "craptastic midlands" is fine. if its under warranty just have them replace it all. thats what im doing next month if i make it there...
__________________ 2004 Mini Cooper: Sports Package, Yellow & Black MODS: K&N SR intake, Cross drill & Slotted Rotors, EBC yellow stuff pads, Strut tower brace, No back seat, No spare, OBX header, High flow cat, Muffler Delete, 2003 6 speed, Stage 2 clutch, 12lb Fidanza lightweight flywheel. SOON: Springs Later: Power ... Turbo?
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Koni yellows, H-sport springs, H-sport rear control arms, powerflex front control arm bushings, OMP lower front strut brace, Ireland fixed camber plates, Alta 22mm rear sway, Colbolt carbon fiber rear strut bar, 15x6.5 Rota group N's (12 lbs), 205/50/15 Bfgoodrich G-force Sport tires, Magnaflow cat-back, intake filter, Spec stage 1 clutch, Powerflex upper and lower motor mounts...MORE!! IT'S JUSTACOOPER!!
i thought for sure your symptoms were going to lead to shifting cables, which wouldnt have been so bad... sorry to see that.
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'02 MC 5spd--- Cosmos Black---No Chrome.
Go- H-sport springs, Alta drop-in, Custom Exhaust, Flik Blasts wrapped in Hankooks
Show-Hella 500's yellow, Shorty antenna, German and R50 Badges, German eyes
Who knows whats still really wrong with the tranny. We tried to pull it apart but Ive never done it so its kinda 1/2 seperated. It still might not be that bad internally.......
I'll add mine here. 2004 MC with the Midlands 5-speed, bought it second hand two months ago. It sounded like gnomes were making popcorn in the engine bay in second and third above 3000 and especially downshifting from 3rd to 2nd when the rpm's would go about 3000. Sound mostly went away after highway driving for 30 minutes or more.
Took it in prior to the warranty ending and the dealership contacted Mini Canada because of the sound. They sent out a new transmission right away. No questions asked.
Remains to be seen how we do now. But now that I have the new one I'm aware that it was problematic shifting into reverse as well. My Camry (1998) is like that so I didn't think much of it at the time. And I certainly didn't think gnomes could be making popcorn in the tranny.
I have an 04 with 75k on her now. at around 30k the 3rd gear shattered within, causing massive damage. It was replaced with a refurbished unit and since then no problems. Going into reverse still makes a massive "clunk" sound. Kinda scary. as for driving style, semi-aggressive i'd say.
So...here's my resolution to my Midlands woes. A few buddies and myself took the tranny apart and found the shifter fork (circled in black) imbedded into the shifter linkeage. It had snapped its weld from the rod. So, we welded it up and threw everything back together. At first, the gears locked up again but we were dry-shifting the system with no oil in it. But we insisted to proceed so when we started to drive it everything lubed up AND WORKED!!!!! . 5th and Reverse has to be massaged into gear and there is a high-pitched whine even when the car is in neutral and revved...but it might just need to be driven more to lubricate the bearings. SO...the Midlands is fixed for now and Im babying it til better times... Pics will be added when I get them downloaded...
So...here's my resolution to my Midlands woes. A few buddies and myself took the tranny apart and found the shifter fork (circled in black) imbedded into the shifter linkeage. It had snapped its weld from the rod. So, we welded it up and threw everything back together. At first, the gears locked up again but we were dry-shifting the system with no oil in it. But we insisted to proceed so when we started to drive it everything lubed up AND WORKED!!!!! . 5th and Reverse has to be massaged into gear and there is a high-pitched whine even when the car is in neutral and revved...but it might just need to be driven more to lubricate the bearings. SO...the Midlands is fixed for now and Im babying it til better times... Pics will be added when I get them downloaded...
Get this tuned out right yet? Or are you going to be happy sounding like an SC because your tranny is all jacked up?
Sounds exactly like mine.
I have an '03 with just about 60k on it. It's still stock, but runs fine, and my husband and I drive it pretty aggressively.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AliceCooperWA
I have no problems from 1 through 5, but I have major issues with reverse. Sometimes it wants to go in, sometimes it doesn't. A lot of times, I have to let the car move a little before I can get it in reverse.
HI there. I'm John from Australia. I bought my 02 MC about 6 mths ago. Im 21 and its the first car ive actually bought myself, so I therefore "appreciate it more". I really enjoyed the car for a little while. My midlands is in pieces at the moment, waiting for the second shipment of bearings, etc to get it all back together. I put the car out of service when it started making the 'clicking noise'. I took it to BMW, who recommended the new gearbox. All the internals looked in great shape. A little wear on the 2nd gear dogs teeth, but since shifting was still very smooth and the gear stayed positively in when driving, I decided against replacement.Some people have reported losing synchros. I can see the weakness. The 2nd gear sych is actually different to the rest. Its a metal-to-metal type design and is probably more prone to wear if the oil is bad or low. The others a teflon-like friction pad. My only recomendation to save the synchros would be to change your oil and adjust your driving style. Don't force gears in any more than neccessary and don't 'hold' the stick. Too much force puts pressure on the synchros and may be squeezing oil out of the synchro pads, leaving them brittle and prone to early wear.
The diff is a weak design, being a ring gear pressed on to the crown. Fixtures like this shouldn't exist so late in the power train. Theres to much torque on the diff and it's understandable that they slip. Does the Quaife utilize this method of fixture?
I love the midlands box, which is why I'm trying to save it. I was almost willing to do the 6sp conversion.
Keep you posted on the outcome.
I have thought about making a girdle for the differential section of the case. I would attach it to the subframe with another mount for extra support. Anything to keep the case from distorting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfromaus
HI there. I'm John from Australia. I bought my 02 MC about 6 mths ago. Im 21 and its the first car ive actually bought myself, so I therefore "appreciate it more". I really enjoyed the car for a little while. My midlands is in pieces at the moment, waiting for the second shipment of bearings, etc to get it all back together. I put the car out of service when it started making the 'clicking noise'. I took it to BMW, who recommended the new gearbox. All the internals looked in great shape. A little wear on the 2nd gear dogs teeth, but since shifting was still very smooth and the gear stayed positively in when driving, I decided against replacement.Some people have reported losing synchros. I can see the weakness. The 2nd gear sych is actually different to the rest. Its a metal-to-metal type design and is probably more prone to wear if the oil is bad or low. The others a teflon-like friction pad. My only recomendation to save the synchros would be to change your oil and adjust your driving style. Don't force gears in any more than neccessary and don't 'hold' the stick. Too much force puts pressure on the synchros and may be squeezing oil out of the synchro pads, leaving them brittle and prone to early wear.
The diff is a weak design, being a ring gear pressed on to the crown. Fixtures like this shouldn't exist so late in the power train. Theres to much torque on the diff and it's understandable that they slip. Does the Quaife utilize this method of fixture?
I love the midlands box, which is why I'm trying to save it. I was almost willing to do the 6sp conversion.
Keep you posted on the outcome.
__________________
Supercharger delete mod,Toolio's P/P head matched to OBX header, ARP head studs, Crower Camshaft, "S" throttle body and intake with Silicone tube, Milltek Catback, Engine Dampner, JCW Software,Eibach Springs and S-bars, IE Adj. Camber plates, Alta Rear CA, SS brake lines,Super Blue BF,Flik Wheels,M7 STB, Louvered hood for air intake
. Here's how it went down:
That was a fun trip! 40 MPH with no exhaust and no interior....
. So, who knows what I actually did to it. There is no grinding (like a synchro) or anything else but its bound...
. I will let you all know what I find. But, If I need a new tranny...I already am going the 6-spd route.....
. Oh and BTW...I rape my transmission everyday. I dont blame the Midlands for my errors. I think it would have lasted over a 100K if I wasnt so rough on it. FYI
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