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Thanks for the input I plan to get the head from Thumper Performance, I've heard very good things about his products here on NAM so I'm pretty sure the head will be top class
I'd really like to get RMW's Jesus head but I fear the valves might be too big on a N/A cooper so I talked with Mike from TP some months ago and after a while and some emails exchanged we agreed on the specs for the new head, when the time will come, considering that I use my car mostly on street. On the camshaft, I'll have to see how the RMW one is, and consider it instead of Schrick, but I fear it might be too track oriented, again because I use my car mostly on the street.
Well, I guess 125/130 whp wouldn't be bad at all either, also considering that N/A Coopers weight significantly less than the S cars so the hp/weight ratio might get interestingly close to them even with 130whp...
My Midland just went.... I tried a fast shift from 1st redline to 2nd, and that was it... Then, the shifter became hard to go in gear, and to go back in neutral, but surprisingly, it didn't make any wiward noises, and i could select all gears, so i tried to get back home very slow and gentle, hopping it wasn't completely destroyed, and rebuildable.. Shortly before i arrive home, i tried to change gear, but it has the 2nd gear in, and it won't select any other gear, and the lever feels like ... air. Has this happened to any other in here? Does anybody know what can be wrong with the gearbox?
And another question, from all those of you that did the swap to the Getrag 6 speed, did you notice any drop in performance? I am asking because not only the 6 speed is heavier, but also it has a much heavier flywheel, and also bigger diameter. I'd like to throw in the 6 speed, but i don't want to lose any performance.
My Midland just went.... I tried a fast shift from 1st redline to 2nd, and that was it... Then, the shifter became hard to go in gear, and to go back in neutral, but surprisingly, it didn't make any wiward noises, and i could select all gears, so i tried to get back home very slow and gentle, hopping it wasn't completely destroyed, and rebuildable.. Shortly before i arrive home, i tried to change gear, but it has the 2nd gear in, and it won't select any other gear, and the lever feels like ... air. Has this happened to any other in here? Does anybody know what can be wrong with the gearbox?
And another question, from all those of you that did the swap to the Getrag 6 speed, did you notice any drop in performance? I am asking because not only the 6 speed is heavier, but also it has a much heavier flywheel, and also bigger diameter. I'd like to throw in the 6 speed, but i don't want to lose any performance.
I scanned your post and I had the same symptoms per se. When you crack the Midlands open...look for the 2 shifter forks that pickup the gears. One of my forks had busted a weld. Rewelded and it was sorta like new. The performance actually gained by doing the swap. The gearing is different and i noticed better acceleration. But you are right...the flywheel and setup is heavier....but you can solve that with a LTW flywheel...
And another question, from all those of you that did the swap to the Getrag 6 speed, did you notice any drop in performance? I am asking because not only the 6 speed is heavier, but also it has a much heavier flywheel, and also bigger diameter. I'd like to throw in the 6 speed, but i don't want to lose any performance.
I haven't done the swap yet but I''d suggest going with an aftermarket lightweight flywheel
I have that in mind... Another question. What is it that prevents us from using the Midland flywheel-clutch setup with the 6 speed? What is wrong with it?
The S flywheel and clutch is 215mm while the Cooper one is 200mm and you can't use the smaller one with the 6speed gearbox, I don't know exactly why but I suspect it may be something like for the output shafts, on them the side going into the gearbox is different, I suspect something like this prevents using the smaller flywheel/clutch setup with the 6speed.
I have that in mind... Another question. What is it that prevents us from using the Midland flywheel-clutch setup with the 6 speed? What is wrong with it?
The bolt pattern for everything is different and so is the bolt size....
My Midland just went.... I tried a fast shift from 1st redline to 2nd, and that was it... Then, the shifter became hard to go in gear, and to go back in neutral, but surprisingly, it didn't make any wiward noises, and i could select all gears, so i tried to get back home very slow and gentle, hopping it wasn't completely destroyed, and rebuildable.. Shortly before i arrive home, i tried to change gear, but it has the 2nd gear in, and it won't select any other gear, and the lever feels like ... air. Has this happened to any other in here? Does anybody know what can be wrong with the gearbox
This exact thing happened to me, however, upon inspection by the local MINI mechanic, I had worn my clutch disc to beyond the rivets. After a new clutch was installed I was all good. 45,000 miles later, all is still well.
I wish it could be the clutch too. My clutch was changed 1 year ago, and i have covered about 15k miles with this.
Just curious, how many miles on the Midland before she blew.....and have you changed the tranny fluid, and if so did you use something different from the original Texaco stuff?
Finally, it wasn't the gearbox that broke.... but a damn bowden cable!!! But i am waiting to fix that first, to see if everything is ok with the gearbox too. I hope i was lucky this time.
My Midlands went at 115k. Still had the original clutch as well. Swapped for an '06 MCS Getrag and now have about 10k on it. I used a lightweight Fidanza flywheel and stock MCS clutch (new). Be sure the lightweight flywheel has springs, or find a clutch with springs -- otherwise you get what I got, which is a noisy tranny at idle with the clutch not engaged and a noisier take off from stand still. Squeals kinda like squealing the tires unless I go real easy on the launch.
You need the shift box, shift cables, flywheel and clutch, and the halfshafts to swap it. Better move on to the 6 speed
Agreed, I considered it but when I realized I'd have to change all those things anyway, and that the 5speed getrag isn't free from problems itself, I decided to go for the 6speed. Hope to do the swap in the next months.
I'm currently at 137k on the original Midlands in my '03 Justa, but getting really worried after reading through this thread.
Maybe those who've grenaded one (or more) could help create a check list of things to watch for on a Midlands that's getting ready to let go. Even better if it goes from early warning signs to late term.
Starting to wondering if I should sell it and get a more bulletproof S...
Even if I do the work myself, the price to replace the Midlands or swapping in a Getrag is basically the difference in what I could sell my Justa for and what a good used S would cost...
I have a 2003 MC. My first Midlands died at 59,000. Bitched about it with Mini and they paid for the replacement tranny. I just paid for Labor. Now at 116,000 I just heard the start of the grinding noise again in the second one. I guess these things have a shelf life of about 50,000. Mini had to know there is a problem with these transmissions. I hope mine will hold together until I trade it. Not going to waste the expense of another sorry Midland's or the Gertag fix. Please email me if you hear of any class action lawsuit against Mini for these transmissions. I certainly want to join. This has just taken my love away from the car.
Just hit 150k on my '03 Justa, no issues so far (knock on wood). It does have Redline MT in it though and the clutch cable has been replaced- maybe that helps longevity?
Son has my old 2002 MC at college. Called the other day and said he heard a "rustling" sound like he driving over a bunch of leaves, but there was nothing on the road. He stopped and saw a bunch of fluid dripping from between the front wheels, driver's side middle (ie. the tranny). Since he was just just leaving his house and only 50 feet from his driveway, he pulled back in.
I was hoping for a blown seal but just got the news that there is a hole in the side of the tranny. Waiting for the rest of the news. Private mechanic says he has welded up a hole on another MC tranny and fixed what ever broke. Says he won't know what to recommend until he gets it out.
Any thoughts on fixing (if possible) or just going ahead with a rebuilt?
I plan to get the head from Thumper Performance, I've heard very good things about his products here on NAM so I'm pretty sure the head will be top class 
