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I know I've run across information regarding this before, but I can't seem to find it again. What is the lb-ft torque limit on the Midlands transmission?
No wonder mine got replaced at 22691mi! Seriously though, I often see comments about how the Midlands really shouldn't take nitrous or turbo charging. But how much can it handle?
What exactly is weak in the Midlands? If the tranny breaks which part goes first?
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Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
I just got an email back from HPA about they're Mini Cooper "Gokart" Since the car was pro built for racing applications I thought, "Hey they must have done something do strengthen the gearbox" to my suprise this is what he had to say...
Randy,
Thank you for your inquiry. The Mini Cooper HPA constructed was built to be a fun weekend track vehicle and included such custom touches as carbon fiber door inserts. Of course to be competent on the track, the car used KW Competition suspension, light weight wheels and the independent throttle body system you have attached. It was a one off project for HPA, but I could look to source you the ITBs if you were interested. I suspect you will be looking at approximately $3000usd for the system.
As for the transmission, I believe it used the original as delivered.
Please feel free to give me a call for more information.
WTF?!?! The car is an 03 so it's got a Midlands in it... so a pro built race car with a weak stock tranny?
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Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
It just seem you continuously hear how adding a turbo or nitros is n/g on the midlands tranny. I was just wondering what the thing could handle without putting too much stress on it, particularly as far as a daily driver.
Is that related to the seals? Usually happens in cold weather and the tranny fluid leaking out?
Are people confusing this problem with the transmission being fragile when power is added?
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Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
Is that related to the seals? Usually happens in cold weather and the tranny fluid leaking out?
Yes, its the seals(boots) on the outdrives that are faulty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranzo
Are people confusing this problem with the transmission being fragile when power is added?
IMHO, yes. But stock trannys for any car may fail when power is added. Whether or not increased power will shorten seal life...? For the Cooper, unless you go turbo, I believe the tranny would hold.
Locally, we've had club members Midlands fail when they were completely stock and when they were slightly modded. One guy's on his second tranny and his service house located an output bearing with a metal race (I guess the stock one's all plastic), and ever since he put that in it's been more reliable for him... They installed it when they were in there putting in a lightweight flywheel and aftermarket clutch (he's WAY over warranty, being a 2002 with some 90K+ miles).
Yes, its the seals(boots) on the outdrives that are faulty.
IMHO, yes. But stock trannys for any car may fail when power is added. Whether or not increased power will shorten seal life...? For the Cooper, unless you go turbo, I believe the tranny would hold.
ahhh... i get it now... maybe we need to start a thread to get the myth straighten out!
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Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
Locally, we've had club members Midlands fail when they were completely stock and when they were slightly modded. One guy's on his second tranny and his service house located an output bearing with a metal race (I guess the stock one's all plastic), and ever since he put that in it's been more reliable for him... They installed it when they were in there putting in a lightweight flywheel and aftermarket clutch (he's WAY over warranty, being a 2002 with some 90K+ miles).
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! Great information. My clutch and flywheel is toasted at the moment... I've been trying to find information on how to strengthen the tranny. where would I find such a part? Or should it come with the clutch kit? Thanks again!
Randy
__________________
Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
When installing a Quaiffe or other Limited Slip Differential, we highly recommend replacing the carrier bearings. Sold individually; two required.
Something like this?!?!
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Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
That's the carrier bearing for the diff... this is actually the output shaft bearing. I saw ONE on eBay some time back that was being sold by a tranny shop. It was in OEM packaging, so I'd wager it's an OEM part?
So cost effective to fix the fault... but I can't find it anywhere!!!
= (
Thanks anyways!
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Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
I believe the output bearing is part of seal. They both dump together like. Cold weather (in theory) was cracking the plastic ones and causing the seal to leak.
We're talking about the same thing but you said it better
Thank you so much... if not then maybe I can get the part fabricated by a machinist?
__________________
Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
Car is going in the shop on Wednesday. I'll ask them about it and see if they can source out the part or maybe find a machinist.
__________________
Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
I just remembered that Rick Jordan at 5th Gear Motorsports (or his son Ricky) might be able to get the info for you, since they did the work... Phone number is: 972-317-4005.
SWEET!!!!! Thank you very much! Okay gave him a call and he said he just took out the stock bearings and went to a local bearing shop and matched it up. Hopefully this will make the weak midlands STRONG!
__________________
Start 30, Keep left over crest into short 4 right plus opens, 60, crest and 6 right plus and don't cut short 6 left minus, 60, line into 2 right minus over bump tightens to hairpin over ditch, Into 6 left long opens over crest, 30, 6 right into 3 left plus long don't cut tightens to 1, into short 1 right plus and short 2 left minus tightens at junction (junction 2 at 0.6kms) 20
