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Woah. Is there a difference between the euro gauges and the USA gauges? Your DSC light is in your tach and your turn signal is in your speedo. My DSC light is in my speedo and my turn signal indicator is in my tach. What what?
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Space Blue Metallic/SBM 2006 Cooper, K&N filter, Enkei 17'' Wheels wrapped in BF Goodrich G-Force tyres, MiniMania exhaust, SS+ with Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber Plates. Euro shelf, FES Auto Circuit added recently.
With a build date of 11/06, it's practically an R56!
Μy mods list is in my signature, nothing removed from the car except for the spare wheel.
So what are your numbers??? Basically all the thinks you've done to your I have on my list for mine. So I am interested to see what I can look forward too. Thanks.
So what are your numbers??? Basically all the thinks you've done to your I have on my list for mine. So I am interested to see what I can look forward too. Thanks.
It made 128whp/7600rpm on a Mustang dyno, and 148wnm/5800rpm
nick, it's amazing how fast your car gains Rpm in the first three gears .
All I can say is......well done!
Where is your red line????? 7600 rpm?
Whitch was the best mod for this brute acceleration? Flywheell, camshaft?
Can you show mw some pictures of your custom CAI.
I'm planning to build one and any suggestion would be good
I am glad you like it Thank you vey much for your words
Yes the limiter is at 7600rpm, but i shift at 7300, though i very rarely rev it that much, i don't want to push it all the time The best engine mods so far, starting from the best, were :
The custom CAI is easy, exception the removal of the factory resonator, which is a PITA
My advice is, be carefull with the cam selection if you get one, too agressive is not good, because it will shift the power band so high that it will be out of revs the motor is capable of.
Don't spend a fortune for an exhaust (cat back), and don't go above 2 inch diameter.
Be carefull to get a REAL cold air intake, if you go for one. That means, do what i did (cheap), or get a closed airbox with an cold air feed, like BMC CDA.
Soon the car will be 80-90lbs lighter too (currently 2390lbs), and if i manage to make true what i have in mind, meaning forged high compression pistons, and headwork, it will be very very good for an N/A. :D
thank you for your answer.
Actually my cooper has these engine upgrades:
obx exhaust header (modified with ceramic coating, wideaband soket (wideband gauge still not installed) and Egt (installed) ), metallic 200 cpi kat, Supersprint complete catback, k&n panel filter, removed (completely, a long work) and an hand made carbon fiber to feed stock airbox from the stock intake.
Now I have a spare cylinder head, throttle body and I'm planning to buy a camshaft.
My intentions are to optimize throttle body (maybe machine it to +2mm), choosing a camshaft and (maybe) have my head Ported and polished.
Then the ecu remap.
I need a car to be used everyday so I don't need a car "dead" under 4000 RPM. Witch newman cam did you choose?
Just a suggestion! Use a tube with a complete smooth surface. That's why I made my duct by myself with CF.... but fiberglass it's ok too.
If the duct has a smooth surface you can benefit from a better ram effect in ducts and airbox.
I have already changed the duct, it is not perfect but it is aluminum, so not heating up like plastic, and it is the larger i could fit in there, 70mm! (2.8 inch aprox)
I have the 264/262 camshaft, it is the more agressive cam i'd suggest for everyday use, and it's sacrificing a bit of low the end, but still the car pulls nice from 2000rpm (and it's not running out of power after 6000rpm, like stock, as you can see in the vid )
just a thing: we all think that the stock plastic used for ducts and airbox is not good to have fresh air (me too until some days ago).
Nothing more wrong: plastic is a good adiabatic material:the heat transfer is very low, much lover than metallic material.
Anyway..... good job nick.
Another question (just another, I promise): how does the flywheel stock wieght? And the Fidanza?
just a thing: we all think that the stock plastic used for ducts and airbox is not good to have fresh air (me too until some days ago).
Nothing more wrong: plastic is a good adiabatic material:the heat transfer is very low, much lover than metallic material.
Anyway..... good job nick.
Another question (just another, I promise): how does the flywheel stock wieght? And the Fidanza?
You can ask as many questions as you like
If i had the chance to keep the stock pipe, i'd do it, but after the removal of the resonator, i had to use a flexible pipe to feed the airbox with fresh air.
The stock is 16.8 lbs aprox., and the Fidanza is 8 lbs. (and it feels so great!!! )
Im in the 15's in the quarter, what does everyone else run in the quarter?
Mate, not meaning to insult you or anything, but this is not a representative comparison. The other driver changed gears at 3000rpm, most probably, or wasn't even racing.
I don't have any reliable way to measure a 0-402 time, for now i can only tell i was ahead from a Peugeot 207 THP (1.6 T 150ps 245nm), from 1st gear rolling start to 1200m, about 4 cars length ahead, and this was without the ECU remap, and a Mazda RX8 192ps, from a stop up to 170kmh, with the ECU tune, about 2 cars length ahead.
When i manage to get a Performance box, i'll be able to upload some reliable tests.
I don't pay to have a 14s car, neither to beat the little N/A Hondas. The N/A 1.6 Honda may be faster than me, but let's see what happens in the track or the twisty road. I like tuning my car, it is a challenge for me because R50 are not like R53 where everything is tried and tested, and afterall i like it. If you don't like the Mini world and Minis, simply get sth different.