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Reviving the thread with an update. I tried going the Spectre route. All of the auto chain shops have them it seems(other than Advanced Auto Parts). Anyways, got the filter but no flipping adapter to make the filter fit to the MAF sensor. You pretty much need a 3 inch outside diameter tubing to fit on to the inside of the Spectre filter and that should also fit on the outside of the MAF sensor(which I have not tried since I couldn't find the tubing).
Anyways, I was at Autozone and found a steel mesh cone filter? It comes with the correct parts and has a silicone tube with and inside diameter of about 3". Since it's silicone and comes with clamps, I believe I should be able to clamp outside the MAF sensor and clamp it down tight. Only down side is the crazy orange color(less loud than VIP's though). I'll give an update after I install it tomorrow.
The air temps are on my ScanGauge II and volume with a air flow meter.
Hey Oxy, I actually have another question regarding the air flow meter you used. If I'm reading my sources right, air flow meters measure the rate of air flow and not necessarily the volume of air flow correct? Basically the MAF sensor will measure the air coming in and inject the right amount of fuel. My question is, a less restricted air flow mod(whether a CAI or less restricted tubing/filter setup) will only allow a higher fuel burn rate(thus theoretically increasing power). In other words, it does squat for fuel economy, but theoretically increase power. So unless you're pushing it harder, there should be no other changes. Correct?
Quite a bit of space available since the muffler and airbox is removed. I'm thinking of running tubes all the way to the stock air hole. Anyways, as far as performance difference; not sure if there is any. However, the roar is definitely a loud roar under load. Cruising and regular acceleration, the sound is same as stock. Otherwise it's really roaring(especially on floored accelerator)
Quite a bit of space available since the muffler and airbox is removed. I'm thinking of running tubes all the way to the stock air hole. Anyways, as far as performance difference; not sure if there is any. However, the roar is definitely a loud roar under load. Cruising and regular acceleration, the sound is same as stock. Otherwise it's really roaring(especially on floored accelerator)
looks good. i like the orange. seems like a pretty straightforward diy job. what's the cone filter's model number and price?
It's an out of production cone filter unfortunately. Made by a company called Reworks(owned by ASC IIRC). You could try finding it online. Google "Reworks steel mesh filter". It's the only one that came with a silicone tubing that allowed me to stretch it around the air filter and the MAF sensor. Otherwise, I could not find tubes that match the diameters of different cone filters or the MAF sensor. 3" diameter tubing does NOT fit the 2 3/4" MAF(it's a pretty huge difference). Oh and cost was $39.99 at a local store that had one left. :P
is it really necessary to run a tube to where the stock air hole is?
i installed a k&n apollo cai in mine and throwing the tube that came with mine just kills the sound and it constantly falls off due to all the rumbling and hose clamps do no good.....
__________________ R.I.P 2009 MCS Pepper White (totaled) 1-6-10
is it really necessary to run a tube to where the stock air hole is?
i installed a k&n apollo cai in mine and throwing the tube that came with mine just kills the sound and it constantly falls off due to all the rumbling and hose clamps do no good.....
Which tube are you talking about? The stock one from the hole near the grill to the stock muffler? I took mine off when I did my open cone filter. And what do you mean by "kills the sound"? Gets louder or softer? As long as you removed the stock muffler, it should be louder.
Yes the one leading to the front grill
But mine came with a replacement and it's just a tin hose which connects to my intake and leads to the front air hole, but the new hose softens the sound to make it sound practically stock
So can I remove it or is it necessairy I'll post up a pic when I get home to show u exactly to avoid confusion
__________________ R.I.P 2009 MCS Pepper White (totaled) 1-6-10
Yes the one leading to the front grill
But mine came with a replacement and it's just a tin hose which connects to my intake and leads to the front air hole, but the new hose softens the sound to make it sound practically stock
So can I remove it or is it necessairy I'll post up a pic when I get home to show u exactly to avoid confusion
I have the K&N and it's really really noisy without the air tube to the front air hole. The main reason for the air tube is to get cold air (which is denser) rather than picking up hot air from around the engine. The ECU will mix in extra fuel and you should get a bit of extra power. I think I can tell the difference when the air tube falls off the cone section.
(Yes, it falls off easily. I put a hose clamp there instead of the plastic tie, and that helped. If it comes off again I'm going to work out some way to bolt it on!!!)
__________________ pw4
R56: K-Mac camber, JCW brakes, K&N CAI, Hella 1000s, sunroof, wood,...
R56 LCI: Alta rear bar & gauges; JCW brakes, gearknob & dash; LSD; 17" RJR wheels; sunroof; Lyle wraps; stripes; Hella 500 & FF500 lights,... Chili Red Owners Club #642
If you have an open cone air filter, using the tube to the front of the grill makes little sense. However, if the cone filter is closed in a housing, then yes, I would recommend keeping the hose. Either way, the hose really restricts air flow when compared to just open air.
If you have an open cone air filter, using the tube to the front of the grill makes little sense...
I agree.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IzzyG
...if the cone filter is closed in a housing, then yes, I would recommend keeping the hose...
Which mine is. Incidentally, I notice on the Out Motoring page there are now 2 K&N CAIs - looks like one now has a hose designed by adults rather than the stretchy-concertina-thing that keeps falling off. Looks to have a properly-shaped piece for the opening behind the grill too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IzzyG
...the hose really restricts air flow when compared to just open air.
Hmm - I guess so. (And the opening behind the grill is smaller diameter than the hose, so that limits it even more.) I'm getting out of my depth though - what's more important, quantity of air or temperature (ie density) of air?
__________________ pw4
R56: K-Mac camber, JCW brakes, K&N CAI, Hella 1000s, sunroof, wood,...
R56 LCI: Alta rear bar & gauges; JCW brakes, gearknob & dash; LSD; 17" RJR wheels; sunroof; Lyle wraps; stripes; Hella 500 & FF500 lights,... Chili Red Owners Club #642
just saw a new picture of the intake option from VIPCustomParts. I already have the K&N drop-in filter. do y'all think the new intake tube will make a substantial additional difference?
I just added this tube as I already had the K&N filter. I have noticed a big difference in power responce. Too soon to tell about mpg. I like it and it is a snap to install. I asked VIP about the open cone set up and they said it was just too loud for their liking on the MC which is why they stay with the closed box. I can neither confirm nor deny this statement.
I can confirm the open cone is seriously loud. Much better with the cold air tube.
Also, without the tube, you have a HAI because the air has come through the radiator and around the hot engine before it gets to the intake.
__________________ pw4
R56: K-Mac camber, JCW brakes, K&N CAI, Hella 1000s, sunroof, wood,...
R56 LCI: Alta rear bar & gauges; JCW brakes, gearknob & dash; LSD; 17" RJR wheels; sunroof; Lyle wraps; stripes; Hella 500 & FF500 lights,... Chili Red Owners Club #642
The sweet spot for the coolest air with the least restriction is behind and below the block and requires pulling the intake manifold to be able install the cone filter.
I gave the VipAir2 a good test over the past two days. There is a lot more responce when you step on the gas, even between 2K & 3K. When you pass through 3K it actually jumps. I have several long grades that I go up almost daily and I find I can now hold sixth and not have to shift to fifth half way up. I have been taking the same route over and over getting 42+ mpg like clock work. The last two trips got 46+ mpg. This is a combination city and back road. Car idles smoother, the sound is just perfect and any louder would not be as pleasing, IMHO.
I did not think this car could be any more fun to drive, but, for me, this mod has made it so.
I have a 2 1/2" to 3" adapter hose fittted to the MAF sensor connected to an 18" Polished Aluminum 3" intake pipe, with an RS Akimoto (K&N) cone filter on the end, using the 10 mm bolt location on the right side of the block as an anchor point for the bracket that keeps it all in place. I used stainless steel hose clamps on all connections. Works great!
Very similar to oxy blue coops original set up. I kept the air ram tube from the bumper cowl up to where the air box/baffle chamber used to be to move more cold air into the engine bay. I have pictures, not sure how to post them. Send me PM and I can send them to you, if interested. A lot louder on acceleration and almost sounds like it has an open exhaust---it's amazing how much noise canceling is engineered into a factory air box and baffle.
I have a 2 1/2" to 3" adapter hose fittted to the MAF sensor connected to an 18" Polished Aluminum 3" intake pipe, with an RS Akimoto (K&N) cone filter on the end, using the 10 mm bolt location on the right side of the block as an anchor point for the bracket that keeps it all in place. I used stainless steel hose clamps on all connections. Works great!
Very similar to oxy blue coops original set up. I kept the air ram tube from the bumper cowl up to where the air box/baffle chamber used to be to move more cold air into the engine bay. I have pictures, not sure how to post them. Send me PM and I can send them to you, if interested. A lot louder on acceleration and almost sounds like it has an open exhaust---it's amazing how much noise canceling is engineered into a factory air box and baffle.
After reading all the post I decided to take the plunge and try my hand at a CAI for my Clubman.
Thanks to all who have posted on this subject especially OXYBLUECOOP.
I decided to go to the front of the car with the inlet as that is where I found the coolest temps in the engine compartment (thought about a lot of other spots such as the fender wells but was concerned about air quality).
I can experiment in the future with the inlet location as the bend out of the filter could easily be turned down to get to locations similar to OXYBLUECOOP's.
I went with the K&N Apollo, it was designed in Europe for small engine applications -- Good flow qualities and it is enclosed (insulated from heat).
I made a aluminum mounting tray that uses the original grommets from the OEM air box and the valve cover mounting bolt. I wanted the unit to be secure and not "bounce" around as the MAF was designed to be bolted on, not clamped. The mounting tray is insulated with Cool-It (Thermo Tec)
All hose is 3" (except at MAF & Manifold inlet) smooth bore hose
Top View
PS View
Close-Up View
Front View
Inlet at Grille-Orig Opening enlarged for 3" Hose
Top View of Mounting Tray 1/8" Aluminum w/ original groummet mounts
Bottom of Mounting Tray Cool-It Insulation
Inlet Hose (3" x 2.75" 45bend and 3" x 2.75" 90bend
w/stainless coupler inside (it is not going to collapse!)
Last edited by ron-s mini; 08-29-2009 at 11:18 AM.
Reason: typo
WOW! That's some nice work. Might I recommend an oil catch canister to top everything off. You'd be surprised how much oil comes through that hose and makes it's way to the intake runners.
After reading all the post I decided to take the plunge and try my hand at a CAI for my Clubman.
Thanks to all who have posted on this subject especially OXYBLUECOOP.
I decided to go to the front of the car with the inlet as that is where I found the coolest temps in the engine compartment (thought about a lot of other spots such as the fender wells but was concerned about air quality).
I can experiment in the future with the inlet location as the bend out of the filter could easily be turned down to get to locations similar to OXYBLUECOOP's.
I went with the K&N Apollo, it was designed in Europe for small engine applications -- Good flow qualities and it is enclosed (insulated from heat).
I made a aluminum mounting tray that uses the original grommets from the OEM air box and the valve cover mounting bolt. I wanted the unit to be secure and not "bounce" around as the MAF was designed to be bolted on, not clamped. The mounting tray is insulated with Cool-It (Thermo Tec)
All hose is 3" (except at MAF & Manifold inlet) smooth bore hose
Top View
PS View
Close-Up View
Front View
Inlet at Grille-Orig Opening enlarged for 3" Hose
Top View of Mounting Tray 1/8" Aluminum w/ original groummet mounts
Bottom of Mounting Tray Cool-It Insulation
Inlet Hose (3" x 2.25" 45bend and 3" x 2.25" 90bend
w/stainless coupler inside (it is not going to collapse!)
Some amazing work and great ideas lately. I was wondering if anyone has used the Helix DDM? I am considering the K&N Apollo or the VIP2, but the DDM looks pretty good too.
I ordered the complete K&N kit this week so it should be here in a few days. I'll let everyone know how it goes once it's here and installed.
__________________ '11 Clubbie S Auto - Double Hot Choc. w/ hot Choc Lounge Leather, everything but Nav & PDC, all trim & handles painted in body-color. Magnaflow exhaust, JCW Intake, NM Outlet Tube, HSH Catch Can, WMW ByPass Valve, NM springs, 18" Ti RM's w/ 225/40-18's, JCW strut bar, 35% tint, custom Old S'cool graphics, waiting for RMW '11 Tune. RIP Simon - '08 Justa Clubbie
i like the orange. seems like a pretty straightforward diy job. what's the cone filter's model number and price?
without the air tube to the front air hole. The main reason for the air tube is to get cold air (which is denser) rather than picking up hot air from around the engine. The ECU will mix in extra fuel and you should get a bit of extra power. I think I can tell the difference when the air tube falls off the cone section.
because the air has come through the radiator and around the hot engine before it gets to the intake.
That's some nice work.
'11 Clubbie S Auto - Double Hot Choc. w/ hot Choc Lounge Leather, everything but Nav & PDC, all trim & handles painted in body-color. Magnaflow exhaust, JCW Intake, NM Outlet Tube, HSH Catch Can, WMW ByPass Valve, NM springs, 18" Ti RM's w/ 225/40-18's, JCW strut bar, 35% tint, custom Old S'cool graphics, waiting for RMW '11 Tune. RIP Simon - '08 Justa Clubbie
