You're welcome.
That's the reason why I made this thread, so that people could see some realistic results.

There are numerous elements that you have to take into account when you dyno your car:

-weather conditions
-hood open or closed (you know what I think about that)
-type of dyno
-who operates the dyno
-correction factors
-dyno run in 3rd or 4th gear
-...

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

That's a nice car you have there.
I think I read somewhere that you have 130hp now ?
That is possible, it all depends which modifications you have done.

This guy also has a Mini One, he made 121,7hp and 103whp with software, intake with heatshield and cat-back exhaust.

His heatshield:


His dyno sheet:


So, if you have those mods, chances that you have 130hp are small.
As you can see, this guy has a really good setup on his Mini One and look how far it got him.
But, if you have more mods, then it is very possible.
If you also have a sport cat. or cams or something like that, then you can certainly have around 130hp.

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

I have
KN Panel Filter
MTH tuner software(for 98 octane fuel)
cat removal
ngk iridium
(in the clip i had the midlands gbox i now have 6spd(of the cooper s)
now i have also the cooper s throttle body(adapted it)

Projects.

an intake like the picture above ( i would love to know the part numbers and some more photos)

Cooper S head(i know it's the same as cooper but i will polish the exhaust exit.)

Work on the throttle body intake, the stock one is too small, it doesn't take advantage out of the cooper s throttle body.

new remap(adjusting afr ratio)
if possible ..FSE
an larini full exhaust system..

My goal is 150\160hp...

BTW My car is a mini one... Started with 90hp

 

With that setup, 130hp is very realistic.
The cat removal will have added that little extra to get to that number.

I know the Mini One

May I also suggest cams and gasoline cooling ?
Add those two things to your future list and you will have 150hp, maybe a little over 150hp.

The guy with the intake has now switched to a BMC CDA like me.
He got better results with the BMC CDA.
His setup:


My setup:


Kind regards

Der Abt

 

For more info, check out this thread :

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=124139

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

I've forgot Cams of course!!!

Kent cams probably... a friend of mini has Schrick and he says that isn't that good...


Gasoline Cooling??

Hmm....

Can you explain me what is that?

 

Kent cams give more power throughout the entire rev range.
Kent has a very good reputation.
Schrick cams are also very good, but they only give more hp and torque in the higher rev range.

Gasoline cooling means that the gasoline is kept at a lower temperature when going to the engine using the airco lines.
This way, the gas is injected into the engine at a lower temperature.
The Kelleners setup uses this and they gained about 7hp using this technique.

Here's a picture:


It does cost some money.
About 1450 euro.

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

Soon we'll see what mine will do. I have iridium spark plugs and a K&N panel filter, and i received today my Fidanza 8lbs flywheel. When i put the flywheel on, i'll do the first dyno! Is there any chance i will have less drivetrain losses cause of the Red Line MTL and Motorkote in my gearbox?

 

The K&N panel filter is good for about 1-2hp at the flywheel (REAL hp that is).
The lighter flywheel will help increase the power at the wheels (smaller loss), but not the power that the engine itself produces.
The spark plugs won't really add any power.

Regarding your question about the drivetrain loss, no these products won't lower the drivetrain loss.
Will they help keep your parts in good shape and provide extra lubrification ?
Yes.
These products offer extra protection and extra lubrification.
No more, no less.

You have to understand that you didn't really install any mods that increase the power.
The K&N panel filter is the one thing that might help, but all the others are small improvements that won't release any extra power (maybe, if you're lucky you might see an extra hp with all of them combined).

Of course, all of this doesn't mean that you won't be able to find a dyno that says that you're running 130 or 140hp.
Whether that result will be true or not, is something you will have to decide for yourself.
That's the reason why this thread was started.

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

oh

No DIY??:gr in:

 

I've heard of cheaper similar setups, but I don't know if they would offer the same power.

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

To sidetrack this thread just a hair, are there any recommendations from anyone as to what would be good drop-in software to get a performance increase? I'm not asking for huge numbers. I have a K&N 57i and a Megan Racing cat-back. Is there a module that will give me a decent bang for the buck?

Zip

 

i am not an expert... but after looking around a lot i choosed MTH(tuner file) and loved the result.... Superb...

Der Abt you have been great.. but i have more questions!!(i really want the 150bhp\160)..

i have looked carefully under my bonnet and i find out that the place where you have your intake is a little bit wet(its raining here today)!! Doesn't water enter into the intake tube? if you could take a picture from there i would be greatfull.

Other thing...i cant find the reference(K&N) to the crankcase air filter(the little one) can you give it to me?

Finaly i have the cooper S throttle body and i want to enlarge it more but i have a problem i want to enlarge or replace, the "pipe"(sorry i dont know the name in english) that takes the air to the engine.. it's very small to take advantage of my throttle body and my hope to be soon bmc cda(Der abt setup)

 

and i cant find anything on the net relating to gasoline cooling

 

Uh...if this really worked...if 7 hp were as easy as insulating the fuel lines...why wouldn't the original manufacturers do it?

I'm just a little skeptical.

--Dan
Mach V

 

I know people who use the Bluefin software.
It's cheap, easy to install yourself, and so far, every car that went on the dyno with Bluefin software has gained a good amount of power.

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

I don't have any problems with that.
My intake doesn't suck in water, after opening the hood so many times after so many road tests (also when it was raining), not once did I see water in or near the tube.

A little amount of water might get through those grills, but it can never be sucked in by the intake.

Keep in mind that if you want your intake to suck in cold air, you do have to remove a plastic piece to take air from one of those "boxes".
In my opinion this is a good setup.
If you look at the JCW setup, they also have a tube that goes to the same place.

Here's a picture before the tube that sucks in the air was taped in.
As you can see, there is a deep (you can't see the depth clearly on this picture, but the opening runs down the entire box) opening through which the intake can suck cold air.

According the dyno (two actually) the setup works

I have the BMC one.
It doesn't say anything on the filter itself, all I did was measure the size of the tube (the piece that sticks out of the engine block) and gave the measurements to my local tuning shop.
They then provided me with one of the right size.

If you want the K&N one, I'm sure they will give the correct one to you if you send them an e-mail.

Getting as much cold air as possible to the throttle body is a good idea.

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

It's not insulating, there's an expensive system that needs to be installed.
The airco lines are used to keep the gas lines cooler.
Takes about 7-8 hours to install.

Why don't the manufacturers make sure the software is running optimal ?
Why don't they only buy the best parts in the world to make it more reliable ?
Why don't the manufacturers design a better intake ?
...

First of all, every car has to please the public.
Some people like quiet cars, others like it when they can hear the car accelerate.
Example : the intake box is designed to be smooth and quiet, this way it pleases a bigger crowd.
The car also has to pass certain laws before it can be put on the road.

Manufacturers have to take into account many factors.
If they make a car too good, they don't make enough money after the sale when maintenance of the car is needed.

They also have to look at the cost of a car.
A car is still a product.
And if you're a business, you need to make a profit.

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

I have a Dutch article that shows many pictures.

http://www.r53.nl/one_kelleners/13.php

For more information about fuel cooling, you can always e-mail Kelleners.

http://www.kelleners-sport.com/

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

Thanks, Abt. This looks like what I'm talking about. Anyone know what this translates to in $U.S.:

£254.47
(£299.01 inc VAT)

Thanks.

Zip

 

IF that is in Euro, 299.01 translates in to $443 and change in USD.
If that is in Pound it's $588 and some change

 

Today, £299 (United Kingdom Pounds) = $588,31.

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

Okay, thanks. That's too steep for me right now, but I'm gonna bookmark the site.

Zip

 

You could also get some information at local tuners.
If you choose a tuner, make sure you choose one that spends a good amount of time adjusting the software.

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

Thanks, Abt. That's the word I got from some local buds.

Zip