removing the front seat, but leaving it in?

[pointydog]

I'm hoping someone here has done this, and can tell me if there's a simple way.

I will be driving my grandmother from NY to TN, with a car full of luggage (she will be in that front seat). On the way back I will have an empty car, and will be stopping to pick up a harp. It would fit just fine if the front seat would fold flat, either in the open or closed position, but it doesn't do flat either way.

I'm hoping I can take it off the rails and thereby open it flat by moving it forward enough so the seat back is in the rear footwell instead of on top of the rear seat. I really just need about 2'' over the furthest forward it goes.

Obviously I will still have to have the seat in the car, and I hope I can strap it to the rails to make sure it stays put should there be an unfortunate mishap of some sort. I don't see how it comes off the rails though, do I have to remove the rails from the floor? Torx driver?

ANy and all advice welcome.
Thanks,
Chris in NY

[pilotart]

It's 4 T-40 Torx bolts and the rails come up with the seat.

Problem is that there is a cable that attaches to the seat bottom and when ignition is turned on with this cable disconnected, it sets off an AirBag! Warning that can Only be Re-$et by the Dealer.

[OXYBLUECOOP]

The easiest way is remove the torx screws and as opposed to removing the seats from the rails which requires disconnecting a bunch of things that are a royal PIA to put back together. You should have enough slack in the seat harness to keep it connected. Just make sure you don't power up the MINI with the yellow plug disconnected or as pilotart mentioned your airbags will be deactivated on the passenger seat.
Here's some photos:

[Robin Casady]

Originally Posted by pointydog

Obviously I will still have to have the seat in the car, and I hope I can strap it to the rails to make sure it stays put should there be an unfortunate mishap of some sort. I don't see how it comes off the rails though, do I have to remove the rails from the floor? Torx driver?

Yup, four Torx screws hold the rails down. Not sure how you will secure the seat when unbolted, unless the harp prevents it from going anywhere.

[djam43]

Make sure that you lift the negative lead of the main battery if you unplug the seat harness. If not you will get the seatbelt light.

[minicooperwill]

I saw the Guiness in djam's sig and thought of a different Harp!

[mbu]

Originally Posted by pointyd

... ANy and all advice welcome.
Thanks,
Chris in NY

From what I understand transporting a harp is a little more involved than just putting it in a vehicle and taking off. I Googled how it should be done and came up with this link...

http://www.ehow.com/how_9743_transport-harp.html

It might be easier to put a hitch on your Mini and rent a trailer for its transport back home.
.

[pointydog]

That's great. So I now know that the seat doesn't come off the rails, and everything has to remain plugged in unless I want to spend the cost of a rental mini-van at the dealer.

Thanks for the pictures Oxybluecoop, I won't make a mistake about the plug.

mbu, that article on transporting a harp was written by someone who doesn't do it often. It gives needless cautions and leaves out other critical info.
If you're interested in information, check the forums at: harpcolumn.com, professional and ameteur harpists often discuss the mechanics of transpot, cars that fit, etc. on the forum.

The glues and nitrocellulose finish products are extremely sensitive to temperature changes. There are many sad stories about harps transported in trailers or left in cars that got too hot and suffered glue failure, that can cost many thousands of dollars to repair. Too cold and the finish cracks...not quite as bad, but still pretty costly. Nah, I want the harp in car, resting comfortably on some couch cushions, gently strapped in place.

Either it fits in the MINI (I have another harp the same size to test fit at home before making the run) or I rent a crappy toyota van for the trip. The seat is the main problem. Why didn't they make one that would fold flat forward? While I'm at it, why does the leather trim on my sport seats get all crushed up on the back seat when it's folded down? Did they think we'd never use the car that way? The seats have been up for almost 2 weeks and it still looks terrible. Considering that they thought of so many other things, how did these two (three if you count the weird forward-pushing headrest) end up getting overlooked?

'nuff ranting. Thanks everyone for your help! I have to get a torx driver the right size, but at least I know there's no easier way I've missed and I know not to mess up with the plug. It will be close, but I think it will work.

[pilotart]

Before you fold the rear seats forward, take your 'hat-shelf' and lay it in the 'fold' of the seats,
(fuzzy side up, same orientation as removed)
fits perfect and protects your leather from the seat-belt connectors that want to mark the upper when folded.

Torx size is "T-40" and if you have a socket set, you can just get a driver bit for it.

They also sell them as a single (or 'folding' set) tool that looks like the Allen Wrenches.

Would seem that turning that front seat to face rearward would open a lot of room and still allow that 'AirBag' plug to be connected.

[pointydog]

Thanks pilotart.
I hadn't thought about facing the seat backwards, just figured I'd push it far enough forward that it could open all the way and lay flat.

Facing back would mean it could be well fastened to the floor, safer in case something unmentionable should happen. That's a great idea!

Thanks for the hat-shelf hint too. That thing is in the way when the seats are folded down and I couldn't figure out where to put it. Solves two problems at once.

Thanks again,
Chris