I've got a hankering for a classic Mini--and more than a little garage space to offer one. I've located a car that is driver quality, and the price is right. It's in another state, but my son-in-law drove it and said it runs and drives well. I'm worried about the body though. I know it will need some work at some time in the future, and at the same time I'd repaint the entire car. I'm not new to classic cars, only to classic Minis. What advice would you give me? In particular I'm worried about rust--there is some that the seller characterizes as "surface," and we all know that means nothing. Any particular places that rust would be an absolute no-go in? Other than photos of the underside (which I have), what would you recommend I check out?


Just out of curiosity, about how much does a decent paint job cost? Not looking for a show car here, but basic rust repair where needed, and paint that won't embarrass me at the local cars & coffee.

 

HI daffodildeb! We've been working with the brand for over 40 years on the street and track, and have plenty of experience with Classic and NEW models. Please be sure to check out our website for articles and videos on the Classic line.

http://www.minimania.com/article_list.cfm

Parts list:

http://www.minimania.com/search_inventory.cfm#

The restoration section should be a big help, especially when it comes to rust on the frame rails, rocker panels, trunk floor, or floorplan. Please be sure to sign up for member discounts while you are at the site!

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...s_guide1_2.pdf


some thoughts/opinions from owner of a 79 since 2004:

remember it is 'unibody' with subframes .... so body damage/rust can be structural fast

welding becomes a very useful skill fast, followed by painting

if shopping, IMO $7000 is what I expect to pay for a car that is safe and reasonably reliable to drive. Much less and there's probably serious problems somewhere. Price goes up for special models and condition of course. Pickups are hot now ...

watchout for re-VIN .... "1970 updated to 1995 specifications" ... of course you should see less and less of this as a 1991 is legal today, but you could end up with a "creative" title! {the 25 year rule for import}

avoid the 'injected' cars of later years. the control systems for the early injection systems is unique and finding someone who can work on them in the US is a problem. A new computer is $$, so many end up converting the engine to carb's ....

if you are new to Mini remember that of over 5 million Mini, less than 3% were "Cooper" - referring to the true Cooper which was introduced in 1961 and ended in 1971. There were Cooper models in the 80s and later but these are NOT the same as "original" Cooper (incl S). Beware of "1978 Mini Cooper".

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Don't get hung up on the nomenclature, just buy the one you like.....is this a 998 or 1275 engine car? Manual or auto?


As for rust, if you have some good pictures get ahold of Dan at Restoration Mini dot com......he can fix you up and he's in nearby Tulsa OK. As for paint job cost, ya gets what ya pays fer, but it helps to have someone extremely knowledgeable like Dan to do the work, he knows where the rust hides on Minis and will make sure you get a proper job - no sense patching it up on the outside if it's coming from the inside......like Capn says. He's probably booked up till next year, but that will give you time to get to know your car.


BTW, I organize classic (only) Mini fun runs down in NW Arkansas (around Eureka Springs or Harrison - sometimes in Southeastern Missouri) and you're welcome to join us on our next run - always looking for more classics to hoon around with!

 

cost of paint job?

How much do you want to spend?

earl-scheib will do it cheap ... and you'll get what you pay for .....

You gonna strip the car and paint it 'right', or just tape it up and go from there? Changing colors?

When I first bought my 79 I replaced the bonnet - a pretty small bonnet as compared to other cars - and a painter charged me $375 for this one part (using single stage paint) ..

this is when I decided to learn how to shoot auto paint!

But the SECRET to a good paint job is the prep & body work. There's a ton of labor here which you either DIY or pay by the hour . . .

and decent auto paint, materials alone can cost upwards of $400 for even this small a car.

 

Where do Minis rust?


Ha! Everywhere!


When someone advertises a Mini as "rust free", that just means they aren't charging for it!


Look at the bottom edges of the doors, pull the carpets back and look at the forward edges of the floors, look under the headlights, check the A panels along the seam, check the battery box and the rear edge of the boot floor, look under the taillights. Check around the windscreen - sometimes if you look at the bottom corners of the windscreen from the inside you can see daylight - you're not supposed to!


Look in the bottoms of the companion bins (rear seat area) and check where the forward edge of the rear subframe bolts to the car. Check the front inner fenders carefully.....


It becomes obvious when you really look for it.

 

the document I linked has a diagram of top rust spots .....

one good thing about Mini tho ... parts including all body panels are readily available ... and construction is simple.

Classic Motorsports Mag' recently did a series on their full restoration of a 67 Cooper S. They did it "all in" ... articles are on their web page. Sample:

https://classicmotorsports.com/artic...t-really-cost/

 

Thanks, everyone. I got some underbelly views of the car I was interested in my original post, and the consensus from the 3 people I showed them to--all experienced in classic Minis--was: too rusty. So, I'm not a fool, hubby's view notwithstanding. I'm on to the next candidate. Some questions first:

Is there a national classic Mini group in the U.S., similar to the Porsche 356 Registry which we also belong to? Or is NAM my best bet?

Is there any kind of list of people who can do a PPI or at least test drive, in other states? I'm considering one in West Virginia right now.

I know about grey market registrations, and am trying to stay away from them, if possible. What books would you recommend for someone to read which has photos of various years to verify the build dates? In other words, how do I know from rocker switches, side lights, etc., when the production line started using them?

I started out only considering 1275 engines, but everything coming my way lately is 998cc. Pretty bulletproof? Enough power, given that I have twisties in my area, and would rarely be on an interstate? Not looking for speed records, but do need to be able to handle hills.

I apologize for the paint money question in a way. We spent $10,000 on paint for our 356, but got a fabulous job, starting from bare metal, and a generally good body. There's a range between Earl Scheib and that level--just trying to establish some sort of average for a decent job, starting with a good body that might need a small area or two of rust repair. I've heard $2000 bandied about elsewhere--is that realistic if the body is good?

 

I don't think $2K is realistic at all today, materials (depending on color) can easily run $1500.....


I can't believe how expensive it is to paint a car today......unless you DIY or "know somebody"


Talk to Dan at Restoration Mini, like I said....he's the go to guy for Mini paint and body - especially rust repair.


998 is fine for most driving, but to pull those long hills you need a 1275 - or a lot of patience.....

 

Hi again!

Checked with one of our several Classic Mini experts and the consensus is:

"The 1275 is the better option, cost is less and parts are more available, not to mention it will have enough HP to go up a hill. We only rebuild 1275's."

I started my racing career in a bored out 848 cc and then went to a bored out 1275, to what the rules allowed. We didn't really feel the 998 had enough umph and to be competitive in that SCCA class you needed the 1275.

Hope this helps! Also, don't remember if I mentioned the Classic Mini Catalog that is really beautiful:




It's available on our site: http://www.minimania.com/part/AKM201...r-Classic-Mini

Also, if you are looking for rare parts we have a pre-owed parts section online:

http://www.minimania.com/Used_Classic_Mini_Parts

Hope this helps!

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

Still looking...

 

Have you looked on MiniMania's site? they have a whole section devoted to cars for sale with a lot of cars listed there.

 

Yeah, I'm looking there, too. I can't believe there's no national classic Mini club!

 

I found my most recent Mini on Craigslist......there are tools you can use to look for a car anywhere in the states on CL.

 

are you brave?

If you look at any recent MiniWorld you'll find a bunch of sweet Mini

and at prices that are very nice too .....

shipping to the US is NOT as expensive as you might think ....

of course, you might be buying from just a handful of pictures

but, do you feel lucky?

... I know someone who bought this way ....

purchase price + shipping = less than US going price .....

BUT 'price' or 'worth' of a used car is VERY subjective . . .

 

Yeah, but I'm really wanting to lay eyes on it first--or hire someone to do that for me. Then again, maybe it would be a great excuse for a little trip over there?

 

I can't believe there's no national classic Mini club!

there IS one that claims to be ...

but as you've noticed ... NOT

MiniMania.com has a pretty good sales site and some Q&A

but as a 10+ year classic owner I'd say the resources are slim. I sometimes get better results searching for a particular part. For example there are a BUNCH of places that talk about the SU carb . . .

and feel free to PM this owner since 2004 . . .

and for $12,000 you can have mine .....

 

Hi Daffodildeb,
I think you and I were both awaiting arrival of our brand-spanking new 07 Minis back in the day. I bought my '69 Mini a few years ago on Craigslist for $7,000. I had it checked out and it's still cost another $5000. for needed gearbox, disc brakes, radiator, exhaust system, and various odds and ends. You know though, it's all worth it! It's become my around-town daily driver, and a total kick to own. Even though my girlfriend says I should have a bumper sticker that says: "My other car is a tow truck!"

 

That's pretty funny! Hope I don't have that much trouble, although there's no way to be sure. At least at this point in my life my kids aren't going to go without--they've been out of the nest for 2 decades--and it would be a good thing if I missed a few meals myself.

Where I am now is on my third likely candidate. I just had a PPI done on a car in Florida, and I need to pass that report and the photos by a mechanic friend here--someone who only does classic British cars--and if he's happy I'll start getting serious on price. I'll keep you informed!

 

I was born and raised in the rust belt (Michigan). I now live in Arizona. I'm still amazed that any (key word being any) old car that has spent it's life in Arizona still shines when you look at the underside. My '13 Hardtop looks like it just came off the show room floor. If I were buying a used car I would shop ebay or some other method and find a car in Arizona, fly there to purchase it and have a nice trip home. I would not consider the cost of doing this as part of the cars price but rather the cost of a neat, mini vacation.

 

I have a really nice MINI for sale if interested

 

She bought a car.....

 

Yup, "she" did! I didn't buy the car I originally posted about, but did buy the car I mentioned in my September post. It's been a real experience, let me tell you. I have to say that I'm still learning to drive a car without power steering, and expect to be a weightlifter in another few months with all the muscles I'm building! I did have some work done on the car after I got it here--nothing particularly unexpected--including new ball joints, brake lines, gas tank float, and a few other odds and ends. The car is definitely handling better now. Fortunately where I live I can drive year 'round, and will do so as long as the roads are dry. (We don't do wet roads in our classics--Hubby also has a '64 Porsche 356, which he has owned for 49 years.)

Here's Angela, named after a friend of mine who has shocking-red hair. My 2015 F56 is next to her--he's Oliver.

 

The classic looks just great! Speaking of no power steering, we welded the diff in our race Minis so driving around the paddock to get to the false grid was a real workout!

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

Thanks. I was skeptical that new ball joints would really help the steering effort (not that I doubted they needed to be done), but either memory is easier or steering is. Either way, it does seem to have helped somewhat. I don't see how anyone could move their Mini in their garage with fingertip pressure, as some have commented. Then again, I'm not sure I could do that with my F56.

Driving in routine traffic isn't a problem, but it will be interesting to see how the car handles on Scenic Seven (an exceptionally twisty highway that is just a stone's throw from my house). I haven't had time since I got her back from the shop and it's been wet and rainy lately. I did follow my Hubby back the shop over about 30 miles of lower-speed twisties, and while I could tell he wasn't running hard, I had no problem keeping up. He was driving the F56.