I've decided to take on my resto so I wanted to rename and move my thread.

Here is where it started:https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-welcomed.html
My main concerns at this point are the rain gutter and how true to the early Mk1 to take things, like should I attempt to keep most of the little differences (single sills/magic wand/floor pans/ect).

I want to note that the pictures make things look worse than they are. I am replacing the floor completely and attempting to salvage all panels I can as all are original. Aside from the obvious panels that will be replaced, the pitted areas are actually very solid. Hope I can get some motivation here as I have already had some great help.

 

Hi...I know your in America but the best place to get early mk1 panels and parts is
http://www.m-machine.co.uk/

and here

http://www.minimail.co.uk/

 

So, have you started on it yet?

 

Yeah, I've started, just barely. Its been too hot to do much lately. I just received my floor panels and waiting on m-machine for some more panels. Plus been trying to sell one of my cars and had to put some work in to get it running and driving.

Anyways, Ive really been trying to figure out how to tackle the rust pits. I took a flap disk to them today and the pitting doesn't look to be too bad. Think I will spot blast then epoxy primer but need to figure out how to neutralize the rust stuck in the pits.

 

you could try POR ... I've had great success with this product

but this comes back to my earlier posts .... this shell, to be done right, needs a full soda blast or better yet a dip .....

a flap disk does not get into those pits and they will come back to haunt very very fast . . . spot blast will help, but coat with POR quickly . .

(question is, will a 'blast' blow through???? leaving you with swiss cheese

my boot lid had rust issues when I got it, esp pitting where the outer skin had beed folded over onto the inner frame. A tried blasting it and ended up with swiss cheese . . . )

 

My first Mini had a 'magic wand' and once the engine mounts went south, it became a great teacher of smooth gearchanges (not that I ever really learnt them, having only driven Minis) - any sort of rough gearchange would have the intertia of the magic wand knocking itself out of gear. particularly 1st and 3rd.

Mark you, being 19, I did then lash out wasted money on an aftermarket remote gearchange that didn't change gear that much better but of course looked as cool as things can when you're 19.

 

engine out. need to strip everything off of the shell, remove the doors and build a spit.

 

You have a huge amount of work ahead of you, and it gets done just like this, one step at a time..


Keep up with the pics.


I'm thinking if you have a good roof it might be smart to swap it out......it could be tough to get compound curves like the corners bent up in a patch panel, but you could cut those pieces out of your spare roof and patch them in that way.......

 

And wasn't it good of Austin to build the car with two big holes in the engine and rear seat bulkheads for your spit to go through? There's foresight for you......

Yes, the classic Minis were 'roto-dipped' in primer, which is why the holes are there.

 

This is the perfect build to try some of this stuff on......

 

Been doing alot of HW and still ultra confused about rust prevention and priming and body work.......


So, instead of going in circles,today I decided to do a few things. Underestimated how long it would be to take everything off. Good thing is it is almost bare. I am still finding the metal is in great shape, aside from the floor. I bet if I slapped the 2 floor halves in and put in the drive train, this thing would be on rails. Also, ordered more panels today. Yesterday, got another engine stand for my 2 engine stand rotisserie.

I want to get the body braced, on the spit, and the metal work done, then prime/paint from inside out. Also, Hope the engine/trans wont take too much. I have a nice 998 just in case.

 

Good to see you moving forward, keep posting the updates please.


As to metal work, the best way to fix rust is to remove it and replace it with new, good metal.


The next best way is to use a rust converter on it, as long as it's not structural.


There are no other ways IMHO.


Before you put it on the spit, weld some braces in so that when you cut out the floor the car stays square and straight, otherwise nothing will line up again when you're done.

 

I suggest you get a siphon blaster so you can spot-blast the rusty areas. You don't need a fancy booth or whatnot and don't get all bent out of shape over the fear of warping. Sand the flat panels and blast the seams where needed. Just use a siphon blaster with some playground sand if you're cheap like me, or spend $ and get a more professional media-- regardless: where a VERY GOOD respirator (not just a dust mask) and, after you have sanded and wire-wheeled as much as you can, hit the rust pits with the blaster until they are clean.

Please please please do not remove the paint from the car where it is still adhering well. just do the spots that you are doing that are rusty. As it sounds like you discovered with your previous projects-- the more you take off the harder it is to get it all put back together. Paint included. Once you've got the rusty spots to bare metal, paint them up with something. not just rattle can primer (it does not protect from moisture) but something more significant.

If you have to replace panels, do not automatically think you need to replace the entire panel because "it'll be easier just to cut the whole thing out and put in a new one". Nope. Patches are great. Spliced in panels are great, especially partial floor pans. Cutting all the way up to a center tunnel when all you need is the outer 3" is a TERRIBLE idea.

But I'm jumping ahead of myself...

Look, I'm not someone to offer advice to a person looking to do a restoration. Never done one and probably never will. BUT, I have resurrected many minis just like yours and passed them on to new owners to do the nicey-nice finish work.

The best advice I can offer is to first, make it run, steer and stop. The rust and make-pretty stuff can be done once you've got a running, driving car. A running, driving ugly car is MUCH more enjoyable than a pretty shell sitting in your garage taking up all of your space. Do the engine bay, the underside, the floorpans so that they are either ok for now or near-ready for final paint.

It looks like you've got a very solid shell which will provide a relatively quick car to make into a ratty but driving rustoration. How many gorgeous cars go to car shows? A LOT. be the guy who drives the work-in-progress car to the show that everyone stands around and imagines what it could turn in to instead of offering them the platform for nit-picking a near-perfect trailer queen.

Good luck and I look forward to checking back in here from time to time.

 

That's one way to do it, and I see Spank's points but....


It's already stripped down, now's the time to make it solid and get the paint done especially in the hard to work on areas. I don't think you can get rusty pitted metal clean enough with a blaster, so after sand blasting use a rust converter or POR over those areas.


We've asked all along what type of project he was going to do, but either way (garage queen or driver) you need to get the base solid first.

 

use a rust converter or POR over those areas

I'd change the OR to AND

the POR system works best when you use 3 steps

1. CLEAN: remove loose or flaking rust and clean to remove all traces of dirt, grease etc. They sell a strong cleaner but there are many options

2. PREP/PRIME: call it a rust convertor or remover or what you want but especially if there is pitting you want to get phosphoric acid wash in there and ideally one that leaves a zinc coating. POR calls theirs Metal-Prep (at this time) and there has been discussion of FERTAN.

3. COAT IT: once the rust has been removed or neutralized it is imperative to "seal it" because exposure to air and moisture just allows new formation. POR-15 coatings or a GOOD 2 part primer are my recommendation. I generally use POR but EASTWOOD (and others) now sell high quality 2 part primers in RATTLE CANS so small batch work is easier (but not necessarily cheaper)

 

Thanks for the insight Spank.
You make some great points and I am leaning more towards what you are describing. I am going to patch everywhere I need to. The car isn't going to be garaged if I'm keeping it. so solid definately, but getting the thing in primer in an inside out progression and paint the bay.

I am waiting on the rest of the floor an m-machine seems is taking a while to complete my order. So in the mean time I am getting some practice in on the other half shell and extra panels. Was doing some measuring on the seven and I found the rear subframe mounting panel is solid and I may not need the one on order. Also, the rear subby is pretty nice.

So, Ive heard to many horror stories about por and I am dead set on staying away. I think I am over thinking the rust pits. I think all I need to do is grind the high spots, naval jelly, scrub in, rinse out, repeat as neccessary, neutralize, spot blast with fine glass, pick if needed, epoxy.

If the rust is cleared out as good as possibly and sealed, I think it will be fine.

 

Rat Rod it!