New (Old) Mini won't start.
#1
New (Old) Mini won't start.
Hello, I purchased a classic mini last week from a seller in Florida. The car started and drove fine while it was there. The car has now been shipped to my house in Chicago and I received it last night. The engine will crank and then sputter out and die within seconds of starting. I believe it may have something to do with the drastically temperature drop between the two locations.
Any suggestions on getting it running? Thanks
Any suggestions on getting it running? Thanks
#2
I'm not a mechanic. Wondering if when you saw the car did it get started cold or was it already warmed up and then restarted? Seller playing games or a straight shooter? I suppose lots of things could have happened during shipping as well. Bad gas, sediment kicked up during trip, weaker battery and cold temps as you suggest.
I think you need to provide a lot more detail for the mechanically inclined to help you out.
I think you need to provide a lot more detail for the mechanically inclined to help you out.
#3
#5
I'm not a mechanic. Wondering if when you saw the car did it get started cold or was it already warmed up and then restarted? Seller playing games or a straight shooter? I suppose lots of things could have happened during shipping as well. Bad gas, sediment kicked up during trip, weaker battery and cold temps as you suggest.
I think you need to provide a lot more detail for the mechanically inclined to help you out.
I think you need to provide a lot more detail for the mechanically inclined to help you out.
What other information would be needed? This is my first car that is not controlled and run by computers. I wouldn't really know what to look for.
The car was cold started. It was 80 degrees out... here it is 25.
#6
#7
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#8
simple question
are you pulling the choke out? When it is COLD you'll need full choke to get it started while in FL I barely need to pull it. BTW, the first 1/3 of the choke 'pull' does not even engage the choke but only raises the idle speed (this comes out of the owner's manual; and assumes everything is set up correctly)
and if so, trace the linkage and see that the choke is actually being activated on the carb(s)
it does have fuel? PREMIUM ... these lil beasts NEED octane . . .
info we need to begin:
what year is the car ... model if known (they are not all Coopers)
what engine size .... original or modified
what is the carb setup? Single or dual? SU or other? stock air cleaner or a cone filter?
at a minimum hang
some pictures of the engine and carbs
for example I have a modified 1979 Mini Saloon. It has a 1275cc A+ motor (MG Metro), with a single SU HIF - 6 carb with a K&N cone filter, and Pertronix ignition in lieu of points. ....
I was in your position 10 years ago when I first bought my 79 ... feel free to PM.
Order the Haynes ....
http://www.minimania.com/part/646/Ha...orkshop-Manual
but also available from other sources (but Amazon lists as out of stock)
are you pulling the choke out? When it is COLD you'll need full choke to get it started while in FL I barely need to pull it. BTW, the first 1/3 of the choke 'pull' does not even engage the choke but only raises the idle speed (this comes out of the owner's manual; and assumes everything is set up correctly)
and if so, trace the linkage and see that the choke is actually being activated on the carb(s)
it does have fuel? PREMIUM ... these lil beasts NEED octane . . .
info we need to begin:
what year is the car ... model if known (they are not all Coopers)
what engine size .... original or modified
what is the carb setup? Single or dual? SU or other? stock air cleaner or a cone filter?
at a minimum hang
some pictures of the engine and carbs
for example I have a modified 1979 Mini Saloon. It has a 1275cc A+ motor (MG Metro), with a single SU HIF - 6 carb with a K&N cone filter, and Pertronix ignition in lieu of points. ....
I was in your position 10 years ago when I first bought my 79 ... feel free to PM.
Order the Haynes ....
http://www.minimania.com/part/646/Ha...orkshop-Manual
but also available from other sources (but Amazon lists as out of stock)
#9
I agree with Capt bj- make sure you have the choke pulled all the way to the end of its travel. Then crank a few times, wait few seconds, and crank some more. At some point you might want to pull the fuel line from the side of the float bowl on the carb, then crank and see if a nice strong pulse of gasoline comes out while cranking. If no, you have no gas in the tank, blocked fuel line, a blocked fuel filter if it has one, or the fuel pump is failing. Also you could check for spark or see if the distributor is loose and the timing has shifted. I also recommend the manual; lots of troubleshooting advice there. Good luck!
#10
Houston, we have a problem
I'm PMing OP
looks like the car is a South African Mini (I didn't recognize the "e" model designation) and has a Weber fitted . . . . "all original" ???? I dunno ... maybe the SA builds did come with a Weber . . . Haynes nor the factory manuals for a "UK" build say anything about any of the cars made under license like the Innocenti' etc etc
Soooooooooo . . . can any one help this guy?
I'm PMing OP
looks like the car is a South African Mini (I didn't recognize the "e" model designation) and has a Weber fitted . . . . "all original" ???? I dunno ... maybe the SA builds did come with a Weber . . . Haynes nor the factory manuals for a "UK" build say anything about any of the cars made under license like the Innocenti' etc etc
Soooooooooo . . . can any one help this guy?
#11
The same basics apply, you need compression, spark and fuel for it to run.
I agree with giving a shot of ether just to get it to go......is there any gas in it? Did they drain it to ship it?
The weber carbs have a choke too...but they also have an accelerator pump, so with the air cleaner off, you should be able to peek down the carb throat and see a squirt of gas when you pump the throttle - at least till the float bowl empties.
One last possibility, water in the gas is frozen.
Do you have a warm garage to keep it in?
Tuned properly it should start in cold weather like any other carburetted car.
A few good pics of the engine compartment could help.
The best shot for a warmish day is this coming wed-thurs, it's only going to get down to 37* wed night in Chicago (according to the weather service) so if it had to stay outside that's the best chance to get it unfrozen, tho a warm garage would be even better.
I agree with giving a shot of ether just to get it to go......is there any gas in it? Did they drain it to ship it?
The weber carbs have a choke too...but they also have an accelerator pump, so with the air cleaner off, you should be able to peek down the carb throat and see a squirt of gas when you pump the throttle - at least till the float bowl empties.
One last possibility, water in the gas is frozen.
Do you have a warm garage to keep it in?
Tuned properly it should start in cold weather like any other carburetted car.
A few good pics of the engine compartment could help.
The best shot for a warmish day is this coming wed-thurs, it's only going to get down to 37* wed night in Chicago (according to the weather service) so if it had to stay outside that's the best chance to get it unfrozen, tho a warm garage would be even better.
#14
#15
Ok. So you all guided me to the proper problem. The choke was not connected. My wife and I just got it started manually holding the choke open. Now I just need to get the part to have it held open properly with the pull on the dash.
but after that I noticed the carburetor does not have an air filter on it. So I am going to work on looking for a air filter that will fit.
Thank you everyone for all the advise.
but after that I noticed the carburetor does not have an air filter on it. So I am going to work on looking for a air filter that will fit.
Thank you everyone for all the advise.
#16
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#19
#20
a) you need air + fuel + spark ... is there gas in the tank (highest octane you can get) ... if a fuel filter is present ensure it is not clogged. When you crank with no start, do you smell fuel in the exhaust? The unburned fuel should be passing . . .
b) SPARK? - do not NOT mess with the fuel system beyond what I mentioned above until you ensure the ignition is correct. ESPECIALLY DO NOT mess with carb adjustments. Do you have spark? There are several ways to check for this but bottom line is if you have spark the car should try to start assuming SOME fuel is making it thru. Even with timing WAY off you should get a 'buck' or two.
ENUF to get you started . . . . IF you had no prior car knowledge . . .
b) SPARK? - do not NOT mess with the fuel system beyond what I mentioned above until you ensure the ignition is correct. ESPECIALLY DO NOT mess with carb adjustments. Do you have spark? There are several ways to check for this but bottom line is if you have spark the car should try to start assuming SOME fuel is making it thru. Even with timing WAY off you should get a 'buck' or two.
ENUF to get you started . . . . IF you had no prior car knowledge . . .
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