Things are moving along. Its been 5 weeks since I got the Mini home and I have spent most Saturdays doing some tear down work. Since I want to have the shell at the body shop in the next few weeks and the temps are dropping here in Michigan, I spent some extra time laying on the cold concrete

Here are couple of pix:

Engine compartment is empty and front subframe is out....



Rear subframe is out.......



You will notice that one radius arm is still on. I have a rounded off bolt that hold the radius arm to the subframe and I have one bolt that broke off. What are the best methods for extracting a rounded off 1/2" bolt and for extracting a bolt that sheared off flush with the radius arm that is still through to the subframe?

Last pic - the interior os looking barren....



ou will also see in this picture that I have one door still attached. All the nuts but one in the wheel well that hold the door hinge are rounded off. Any suggestions on how to tackle this one to get the door off the car? Unfortunately the car is close to the wall so I cannot completely open the door to get to the hinge screws.

I have been lucky to date. This weekend was my first problem bolts and nuts. The only other item has been a stripped screw that holds the air vent to the body. Unfortunately it sheared off as I used an easy out and now I have to drill it out - this is not going so well either.

Any suggestions on good drill bits for this kind of work?

Thanks again all for any help!

 

For rounded off bolts (and oil drain plugs) I've had great success with IRWIN bolt extractors. This picture shows a complete set....the basic set is only 1/2 the sizes.... I got mine at AutoZone but I've seen them at Home Despots as well....any place that carries IRWIN...


For a sheared off head tho, You're gonna need a different type of extractor. I got mine from Sears. They come in two parts: a strong drill bitt you use to drill a hole in the sheared off bolt. Then the extractor is a special sort of a reverse twist drill bit with a tapered size that you fit to the hole you drilled and crank on with a wrench....it twists and bites into the hole then gives you purchase to hopefully pull the bad boy out... I got mine at Sears but they are a common tool.

 

To further add to Capt BJ's great info...

1: When drilling out a sheared off bolt, drill all of the way through it and use Tap Magic or a similar cutting oil.

2: Buy QUALITY drill bits and drill at a moderate pace. Not slow, not wide open. You don't want to deal with drilling out a broken off drill bit and you really don't want to try (keyword: TRY) to drill out a broken off extractor)

3: Sears sells a tool for rounded nuts, in case the tool Capt BJ mentioned above doesn't work, that literally splits the nut. Try the Irwin extractors first though.

 

Besides the above, lots and lots of PB Blaster penetrant, or similar. Apply heat from a propane or acetylene. Door hinge bolts are only in the fender well, but you do need to disconnect the check strap.

 

Thanks for the great advice....

My wife will be thrilled that I am once again adding to my tool collection! Seems like a weekly event these days

 

I've wondered about those Irwin bolt extractors... so they actually work? Sears carries another brand as well - instead of having "curled" flanges inside the sockets, it looks like there are welded-in ball bearings or something that grip the bolt facets (not the corners). I have not used either tool though...

 

I have had good experiences with the Irwin kit as well. (Pretty inexpencive as well as I recall.)

 

What's the future color?

 

You can also try to file down the hex head a little then force on the next smaller size depending on how badly rounded they are. But use a 6 point impact socket if you are going to do this.

The extractor sockets usually work though. Somtimes it helps to tap them a little with a hammer to get them to grip well.

If you are not comfortable with drilling out the sheared bolt, just take it to a machine shop. It's really not all that expensive compared to having to fix the mess you made trying to fix it yourself.

 

If the head is completely sheared off the bolt you should be able to just drive it out with a BFH and an appropriately sized drift. But if it was rusted in there bad enough to break off, it might still fight you. I'd use a good dose of PB Blaster and just let it soak - sometimes it can take up to a week for the penetrant to go all the way thru - just have patience.

On easy outs, I like to use the kit that has the reverse drill bits - often the bolt will come out as you're drillling it which makes it quick and easy.

You can simply grind the heads off the bolts to get the hinge bracket and door off, then soak them good with penetrating oil and use a good set of vise grips to get the remaining part out.

It may be too late now, but I hope you took tons of pics before, during and after you tore it down; also bag and identify all the nuts and bolts. Months (or even years for some of us) from now when you go to put it back together you'll be grateful you did..........

 

Follow up

- I've had good experience with the IRMIN extractors, esp on rounded oil plugs. Tapping it down with a hammer does help sometimes.

- PB-BLASTER is nearly a requirement if you are along this path. Or a similar product...but since they are oil based I'd be very careful about HEAT after a liberal dose

- the thought of breaking off an extractor inside the bad bolt.....oh no.... Yes drill medium slow and careful with a GOOD bitt and oil. As you see, the Sears kit I have came with appropriate bitts.

- A nut buster will work if what you have a problem with IS a nut....they don't help on a bolt tho.

- I have not tried the Sears extractors. Since the IRWIN works for me, buying 'em to compare is a bit TOO much of a stretch of an excuse to buy another tool for me .... today anyway

 

Looking good OK.. has your son been helping?

 

Stopped by Home Depot - a 5 piece Irwin bolt extractor set was $19.95. Will try it out later this week and see how we do. I have a set of screw extractors - course I found out that my "cheapo" drill bits need to be replaced, so that became another tool investment. I feel relatively lucky to be this far along with only one sheared bolt, one sheared screw and a few rounded off bolts/nuts.

I was almost tempted to make some offhand remark about 'nut busters', but then felt better of it.

Meno, the color is still a debate. I like the classic colors and am leaning towards Almond Green/OEW, changing the grill to an older chrome style (ipo the black grille), and adding some other chrome bits and perhaps the leather hood straps and white stripes. The "fake" exterior hinges I saw on another thread would be a nice touch too! My wife thinks I should go with something like my old MCS pepper white/black combination. I think she believes this will require me to reinstall the black interior, original seats, and just put in a new carpet set. Living near Auburn Hills, MI and working in the auto industry, my neighbor works for a company that does seat upholstery. He tells me he has lots of samples and a factory in MX that could replicate my current seat covers for a nominal cost. If I could get a tan interior for the seats that would be great. My company makes automotive fluid handling products. Our prototype lab can make a 3D scan of brake and fuel lines and then bend them on a CNC bender. I am not sure of how to evaluate or clean up the lines on the car - I may have to see if the lab can help me.

MINIDave,

I have about 150 pictures and my wife keeps wondering where the freezer and sandwich bags are going. There are 10 plastic storage bins full of bags & parts in the basement. Fortunately, someone made a few suggestions when I started out. I have found a local fastener supply that works with car restorers and I am hoping to duplicate my nuts/bolts etc. more cheaply than buying through a parts place. After 5 weeks I am already wondering how much I will remember.

Mercy,

Thanks for rembering my s
on. Unfortunately he lives with his mom in Ohio and I only get him every 3 weeks. He will get to clean parts on his next visit - not quite as cool as pulling an engine like on the last visit:



or riding in my "engine pulling" helper's Lotus Super Seven



PB-BLASTER rules!!!!!!!

Thanks for all the help

 

I too love the muted classic colors of the sixties. Please keep this forum up to date.

 

I have the sears bolt removers and they basically are the same thing as the irwin ones. They work just fine. I wouldn't doubt that irwin actually made the sears ones.

 

Wow.. love the Lotus. You see a lot less of those than you do the Mini. That is cool. The white and black would be nice. Maybe a Mk1 light blue and white top.

 

Irwin Bolt/Nut extractors are very cool

Took 15 minutes after soaking the door hinge nuts in the wheel well with Blaster and a few taps of the hammer to secure the extractor on each of the nuts and my door was off!

Highly recommend this product for anyone tackling the dismantling of an old Mini!

A big to the Classic Mini forum gang for the recommendation. Saved time, aggravation, and can't wait to tackle the rear subframe next!