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I just got my seat extension brackets today and they didn't come with instructions (along with the steering wheel drop bracket) so I was wondering how do you install these things. I can't figure it out. Anyone got any pictures of how they're installed?
Fitting steering column drop and seat adjuster brackets
As we know all too well, the Mini’s standard driving position is “unusual” to say the least, and the taller you are, the more apparent this problem is. It can be solved however, for less that a tenner and just half an hours’ simple spanner twirling.
Firstly, you’ll need a steering column adjustment or “drop” bracket, and a pair of seat adjuster brackets. Going by show prices, the whole lot will set you back about seven quid. It’s also worth scrounging a couple of M8 x 60 bolts and nuts from a friend or local engineer’s supplier.
Tools:
<LI class=level1>1/2” Spanner
<LI class=level1>1/2” Socket and ratchet
<LI class=level1>Square file
<LI class=level1>Mole grips or similar
An adjustable spanner would also be useful
Time:
With minor mechanical experience, half an hour is plenty long enough.
Steering column bracket:
To fit the steering adjustment bracket you’ll firstly need to remove, or at least pull back the front carpets. On the lower part of the bulkhead you’ll see four 1/2” nuts, two on each side. These hold the steering rack to the underside of the car. Back these nuts off so the rack can move slightly.
Check the original shear bolt that holds the steering column to the lower dash rail. If you’re lucky it will be an odd looking thing with a narrow neck and a hex head - the nice man at Longbridge didn’t quite tighten it enough to break the head away, but chances are the hex on the nut will have sheared.
In either case, the nut will have a conical appearance. File two flats on the nut, and on the bolt if it has been sheared. Now use the mole grips and/or adjustable spanner to undo this nut and bolt. I usually throw the shear nut and bolt in the bin (that’s where those spare M8s come in), but if you have no replacement for them, they can be reused. When the bolt is removed, the column will be free to drop, and is heavier than it looks when the steering wheel lands on your goolies, boys!
Next, fit the adjuster loosely into the mount on the dash rail, and lift the column so it can be hung in the bracket. I routed the wiring from my steering column through the adjuster bracket, and it makes the job look much tidier.
It’s now time to sit in the driver’s seat and decide where you want the wheel. Remember that if you intend to fit seat adjuster brackets, you may want the wheel and inch or so lower. When you’re happy with where the wheel is, you can tighten the two mounting bolts. I advise tightening the lower bolt first.
Ensure that before you fully tighten the column bolts (specifically the one through the bottom of the adjuster bracket) that the outer column has not slipped down as this will stop the indicators from self-cancelling. Ensure that the engagement peg one the back of the steering wheel locates in the notch in the canceller. There should be around 1/8” space between the back of most steering whels and the top face of the plastic column shroud.
It’s worth checking the pinch bolt at the bottom of the column while the carpets are up, just to ensure it’s nice and tight on the rack.
Finally, tighten the four nuts in the floor (be careful not to overdo it, as the steering rack can be crimped and ruined) and refit your carpets.
Seat adjuster brackets:
Fitting of the seat adjuster brackets is much more straight forward, and takes only a few minutes.
At the front of each seat you’ll see two bolts which hold the seat in and act as the pivot. Undo and remove these bolts, pull the seat catch release knob and the seat can be moved back, out of the way. Insert the new brackets into the mounts on the crossmember and use the nuts and bolts provided to fasten them in.
The seat can now be moved back into position and fitted to the new adjuster brackets. I’d advise the use of only the bottom row of holes, but the final decision is entirely down to your preference.
Be aware that the back of the seats can foul the rear bins, limiting the amount of seat travel and recline. Also ensure the nuts that hold the seat to the adjuster are of a locking type, or thread lock is used - this is due to the fact that they should be “nipped up”, not fully tightened (the seat won’t flip forwards freely if they are) and a Nyloc nut or similar will not rattle off the bolt in this situation.
If, like me, you find that the seat retaining hook doesn’t catch on the bar under the seat, it can be gently bent forward to engage the bar.
As an aside, if you wish to make your seats easier to remove, see this article.
I'm having a problem installing my brackets. I've got them on but there's a lever under the seat that gets in the way of the bracket. Does anyone know what it is for? I'll try to get a picture of it in a bit.
Hey norm do you know what the lever does on the front of the seat?? I pull on it and the places where the seat attaches to the floor moves. My dad said it's to adjust the position of the seat...
here.....I drew this up for ya........no picaso but should help....and sorry if i spelled anything wrong...lol......the lever to adjust the seat back and forth shouldn't get in the way
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my favorite site for classic mini restorations: www.minicreations.net
It wont matter, just make them match. On mine I put them on the side that would move the seats more to the center of the car, to give me a little more room. It doesnt end up being much, about an 1/8 of an inch, but in these cars, every bit helps.
do you but the bracket on the outside or inside the number two spot??
