Just got through changing oil and filter and noticed oil deposits on front face of block, trailing back on bottom of pan. Doubt it's a pan gasket and suspect the crankshaft position sensor o-ring is failing due to location of oil deposits. I'm lazy! Anyone been able to change this component out without removing the whole front end, radiator, etc.?

 

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I'll answer my own question: No EZ way...You must remove the front bumper cover and the go into "service mode". It's not as hard as it looks. Plenty of "Sticky"s on the subjects. Just keep track of all the screws, nuts and bolts. See my other post on Crank Position Sensor O-Ring.

 

Not too hard to do from the top with the bumper out. This is only about 10 minutes of work, even working on the ground. I just changed mine about a month ago. It is one bolt and a plug. I find that disconnecting the plug is the hardest part.

On the R50, there is no need to remove the front to change this, it can be reached from under the car. No supercharger in the way!

Good luck

 

I am having the oil pan gasket (leaking), crank sensor O ring and the crank seal gasket the last two items are not leaking since the front end is off time to change.

 

I just changed my crank sensor o-ring over the weekend and went into service mode for the first time - it was really simple, not nearly as hard as it looks like it would be. In fact, I spent way more time cleaning off the gunked up oil/dirt from all over the block and pan than I did putting it in service mode in the first place - and changing the o-ring only takes a couple of minutes.

There is another method using a ratchet strap where you connect one end to something toward the boot and the other end to the motor mount location on the block (lower) and then essentially ratchet the strap and it will tilt the engine down and back and give you room to get your hand up there. I chose NOT to do this method though and I'm glad because in service mode I had a lot more access to get the mess cleaned up and again, it really wasn't a big deal or time consuming at all!

 

Just replaced the CPS o-ring today. Used the under engine ratchet strap method (remove lower engine mount, replace bolt, use ratchet strap to pull engine back a couple of inches.) Worked pretty well, but couldn't for the life of me get the connector off the CPS. After attempting that for 30 minutes decided just to take the CPS off (10mm bolt) with the connector attached. Couldn't see the bolt through the filth, but could feel it. Even after getting the CPS out of the block, I couldn't get the connector off. Still was able to replace the o-ring and reinstall with the sensor attached.
Getting the bolt back in was a bit challenging, as I was working blind, but after finger tightening and working to tighten it with a variation of a long socket, then a standard socket with a short extension was able to snug it up.
Hopefully it was the CPS leaking, and not the oil pan!

FWIW, realoem shows the oring cost at $1.93, local dealer had it for $5.43, with a discounted price of $4.

I've gone into service mode before, and while it's not difficult, it is relatively time consuming.

 

For those who have done this - on an R50 (justacooper), would you still need to remove the lower engine mount and put a load strap in to have enough room to work?

I can't really tell just by looking at it, and I'm not terribly familiar on how the placement of things on an R53 vs. R50 differs due to the supercharger.

 

While Cone Assassin above says "On the R50, there is no need to remove the front to change this, it can be reached from under the car. No supercharger in the way!", I didn't find the SC to be in the way. It blocks light from above, but the CPS is well below the SC. You might be able to get it out without using the strap method, but it's very close to the rad fan (I still have scars from my R&R, even after moving the engine back.)

 

Very helpful - I didn't think the supercharger would make too much of a difference - I'll plan on using the strap. I know what you mean about scars - my hand got cut up when using the strap method to remove the compressor not too long ago.

The official workshop manual method of getting the sensor out on an R50 is to remove the airbox, throttle assembly, and intake manifold. Maybe not too bad, but I'd rather not have to buy all the new gaskets just to put in a $2 o-ring...

 

Turns out the throttle body and intake gaskets would only run about $16 (Fel-Pro brand).

What do you think - worth the $16 to not get at it from underneath? I'm thinking probably "yes"...

 

I'd stick with underneath. Not so much for the $16, but the time and effort to remove things that don't really need to be removed. After having done it now, it would be a lot easier the second time - I spent quite a bit of time trying to get the connector off the CPS, but that's not necessary to replace the Oring. There is plenty of slack in the wire to change it while still connected.

 

Makes sense - wasn't sure how much of a pain getting it from underneath ended up being - apparently not as bad as removing lots of parts from above!

Might give this a try this weekend...

 

Eric - quick question - did you also remove the power steering fan to be able to rock the engine back further, or did you have enough room removing only the lower engine mount?

 

Oops - yes, you do need to remove the PS fan (and the splash shield) first. You can also get a little more slack in the wiring harness by popping it out of clips on either side of the CPS wire.

 

Sounds good - when I took the A/C compressor off a few weeks ago I had enough room to remove it w/o removing the PS fan.

That's also when I discovered this leak - wish I had known about it before having the car up on stands and the load strap in...

 

Well, got it done today using the load strap method. Man, there is not much room to work even with the engine pulled back!

You really do have to do it completely by feel. It took me a while to find the bolt and orient my ratchet so I could loosen it. Of course I got a few cuts in the process too! My dad says it isn't a real project until it draws blood...

I also didn't bother removing the connector from the sensor, and put a small amount of Permatex Ultra Black RTV on the new o-ring for extra insurance. I wasn't able to clean the engine area too well and I'm hoping not much dirt/grime got on the o-ring when I re-installed it.

I think if I did it again, I might try coming in from the top, just to see if removing more things actually ends up being faster in the end because you can see more and get at the sensor more easily. But...hopefully I don't have to do it again...

Also, a very worn piece of electrical tape came off from somewhere around the sensor area. Did anyone else have this tape on their MINI? I'm not sure where exactly it was originally, but it must've been somewhere on the sensor's wiring harness. I'm wondering if it's a factory thing, or something a shop did in the past.

 

Took another look at the how-to over on motoring torque and found a picture with the tape I mentioned (picture attached).

I wonder why it's there - seems to already be protected by the plastic shell...

 

I had the exact same thing happen! I was thinking it was something in one of the wiring harness restraints that I unfastened.
It's definitely an acquired taste, but after having done it (on a friend's car) I know it will be easier the next time. As I said in a different post, it took a combination of a deep socket and a short socket + extension to make it all feel right.
I didn't do the RTV thing, and figured I did my best cleaning the area with paper towels. Time will tell!

 

Strange - the tape does seem to be a factory thing from what I can tell. Doesn't seem like it was doing much though (at least I hope it wasn't!).

You're definitely right - it would go much more quickly the second time around since I know where to put my arms to access it. Hopefully there won't be a next time though...we'll see!

 

Quick question in regards to the orings... is it okay to skimp on the OEM and go with an OEM supplier? I know this is pennies on the dollar but my issue is time. I can get the oem suppliers quicker than i can the ones directly from mini.

 

Parts should be identical. Go for it. I also recommend using some RTV on it too.