Has anyone come across instructions on how to do this? I've searched a bit and found nothing.

thanks

 

I found it while looking to replace a cam. It is pretty easy except you really need a univeral joint. Loosen it from the top, then replace it from the bottom. It may be noisy since the mini mechanic I know said to carefully move the tensioner itself to make the thing click open. (The new one is compressed)

Small mention here....
http://www.minicooperspeed.com/mini-...ation-r50-r53/

If you have the valve cover off (not necessary just for this) you can use something to basically move the chain internally toward the tensioner, otherwise you need to wait for oil pressure to adjust it.

 

Do yourself a favor and buy a 19mm "flex" socket (socket with the built in universal joint), its not absolutely ness. but it makes the job easier, also it's easier when the oil filter is off.

Make shure you torque it when you reinstall the bolt. 45ft/lbs

 

Sorry for the thread hyjack, But at what intervals does the tensioner and chain need to be replaced.

 

As far as the tensioner, I don't know what is recomended, mine didn't fail untill the 150k mark. I'd say just wait till it goes out, you'll know it, your engine will sound like a giant rock tumbler And usually it will only be noticable @ start up and idle (low oil press. situations) to begin with so you'll have some warning. Just pick one up @ your leasure ( $50.00 or so. ) and sit it on the shelf till you need it. (only 20 min. or so to change)

Chain, again don't know what is recomended I have 160k on my original with no indications of stretching.

 

I can hear it rattle when it's very cold out, until it warms up.. Sounds like the issue the newer mini's were having.. It hasn't done it lately, but it's been kept in the garage.

 

Thats the way mine started, only @ start up when really cold out, I ordered mine so while I waited I pulled the old one (it was completely compressed) I liquid wrenched the heck out of it and worked it manually untill I felt it was moving pretty freely, then reinstalled it to get me by. So far the new one is still on the shelf and the old one is working fine. I'll replace it either when the old one fails again or it gets warmer.

 

Is it really necessary to replace the Timing chain tensioner when replacing the CAM? I'm planning on replacing the CAM myself and realize that the tensioner needs to be removed for installation but I only have 30K miles and would rather save the $50 for now.

 

I would say no. Look @ it this way, if it's working, it's working.

 

I have looked and searched, found mention on utube, and on other sites, for instructions on replacing the timing chain etc., it was commented that it takes approx. 20 mins to do. If this is the case I would like to save myself the headache of losing this car for an extended time frame. It's out of warranty, has 8700+ on it, and I have the tools.

Can anyone direct me to these instructions? Thanks for the help.

Gerry

 

There are 2 pretty quick ways to do this with out the special service tool, here is the basic rundown

Option 1 is the fastest way

Take off the passenger wheel

Unscrew all the fasteners holding the wheel liner in place from the forward side of the shock to the bumper, leave the other half in.

Fold the liner back over the brake rotor, it should hold it self in place

The crank gear and back side of the engine should be exposed.

With a swivel socket and a long ratchet loosen and remove the tensioner, some oil will most likely spill out so be ready for that.

Slide in new tensioner, hold it there by hand putting pressure on the chain.

Rotate the crank slowly clock wise with a socket and ratchet feeling for the the tensioner to slide in in. It is important to keep pressure on the chain with the tensioer while this is done.

Rotate the crank until the tensioner has slid in enough to put the screw plug back in or at least get it started.

If the screw becomes hard to turn, it may be necessary to rotate the crank clock wise a little more. Do this slowly as the chain can slap back on rotation locking the tensioner.

Once the plug is all the way down give the crank a few rotations, always clock wise to make sure there is no chain binding.

Torque the plug to 46 FT-LB

Check the oil level, top off if needed

Fire it up and check for rattle or leaks.

If every thing is ok put the liner and wheel back inn

Test drive and enjoy.

This can all be done in about 20-30 min.

Option 2 Not as quick, but still fast.

Have a new valve cover gasket ready before starting

The other option is to remove the valve cover after the wheel liner is moved

Observe the cam gear, it has a raised half and a sunk down half.

Rotate the cam / crank so the raised half faces up with the edges to the sunk down half lined up to the head. Same idea as setting TDC with the line on the cam gear.

This places the chain in a position with the most slack on the tensioner.

Be ready for oil leakage

Remove the old tensioner and slide in the new one in, screw down the plug. This does not require the crank to be rotated and actually should not be moved until the new tensioner and plug are installed . Just put it in and torque to 46 FT - LB

Rotate the crank slowly clock wise to check for binding.

replace the valve cover gasket if needed. Put every thing else back together.

Fire it up check for rattles and leaks

Test drive and enjoy

That's the basic rundown. It's a good idea to buy a shop manual to become familiar with all the parts locations and to have the OE instructions just in case. Its also a good investment in general for any one doing their own work.

 

WOW! Thanks Mike!

I just copied it off, the car is going to be repaired by the dealer this time but I think I'm going to order one and have it on the shelf just in case it's needed.
So, when I remove the tire and pull the wheel well cover out of the way there isn't a cover to remove or something before I get to the tensioner? It sounds so easy, why don't more folks do it themselves?

Thanks again for the information.

 

There is a 19 mm head screw plug that gets removed. It's easy, but for many people it's easier to have some one else do it and have the piece of mind it as done right.

Just keep in mind I wrote a quick run down, not step for step. If you familiarize yourself with the car and are mechanicly inclined then it should be enough to get the job done. If not then it's probably best to find a more in depth tutorial or at least have some one help who has done it.

 

Mike, thanks again. and if I may just one more trouble? What is the part number for this tensioner? It's for a 09 MCCS R55.
Thanks again for all your help.

 

Oh you have a Clubman. I assumed you had a R50, 52,or 53 since the OP was in the 1st gen forum. Disregard my instructions since your engine is completely different.

I am pretty sure there was a recent thread that showed how to do it on the N14 engine. I'll see what i can dig up.

 

Hi all,
Hope someone is still listening to this thread!

I am just about to go thru the tensioner replacement process.

I noticed that this thread says the Tensioner head is 19mm - while the Mk2 Mini thread says the head is 27mm.

BUT I have also read that the newer (longer) chain tensioner is the same part across all engines...

Before I jump in I want to make sure I am ordering the correct part.

Can anyone confirm the size of the Head and the whether this is the newer (longer) precompressed tensioner, as used on the mk2 ?

Dont just want to trust the parts manager to get it right.

Thx,
Monza.

 

Be careful as many tensioner threads will be talking about a completely different engine. This is a cooper S engine generation 1, not the common 'death rattle' threads for Gen2.

Mine was as described here. I loosened it from the top with a swivel and long extension, did everything from the wheel well, then torqued it from the top since I found it easier on top to use more force.

 

Yeh - I thought the two engine procedures were different.
I am still unsure tho whether the new Tensioner is the same part for both Gen 1 and Gen 2.

Thats why i was asking about the bolt head size.
This thread mentions 19mm - but the Gen2 thread says 27mm,
which makes me to think there are two different parts for Gen 1 and Gen 2 - UNLESS the original is 19mm and the new replacement tensioner is 27mm.

Can you remember if your new Tensioner was the same bolt size as the original one that was in there???

Tx,
Monza.

 

No, the bolt only holds the tensioner piston in place and is a seperate part that is not supplied with the new tensioner.

 

Same size IIRC. 19mm sounds right.

 

Duh - what a doofus.
That makes total sense - just a cap bolt (different sizes on Gen1 and Gen2).

Looking at Parts.com the Tensioner for the Gen1 and Gen2 seems like its a different part (no part numbers tho).

I'll order the Gen 1 and hope its the newer compressed part.

Thx,
Monza.

 

Hello. I'm a new member here. I bought my first mini 9 months ago. It's a 2009 Mini Cooper S with 19k miles it now has 38k mile and I've loved the car up until 100miles ago when I first heard the rattle and later found out the issue and the cost to repair. Mini in Pleasanton, Ca. (EastBay MINI) quoted me $5k to repair. Vehicle out of warranty and MINI USA not willing to help with the repair cost. Wtf! :/ soo I have decided to get my hands greasy. I've already bought the replacement parts. $415 with a 10% discount they were so generous to give me lol. Now all I need to buy is a $200 tool kit specifically for this job. Just one more thing I need and I'm hoping this is where someone here could help me. Does anyone here have a service manual that is willing to scan the pages covering replacing the timing chain? Otherwise it's another $150 for something ill only use once :/ I plan on making a video of my endeavor and selling the tools I bought on here. Hopefully it will help someone else on here in the future. Maybe we can all just pass that same tool around lol.

 

I just completed this. (R53)

It is super easy. 30 minutes tops including removing and replacing the wheel.

Tools:

19mm Socket
short wobble extension
ratchet
maybe a short piece of pipe for more torque

Remove the Right side wheel
look for a 19mm bolt head facing the rear just behind the front of the engine
place the socket on first
put extension in socket
then put on ratchet
it may take a little torque but the bolt will "crack" then you can easily loosen
once bolt is out you can pull out the tensioner.
rub a little clean oil on the new tensioner and put in the hole
Tighten bolt
Replace wheel
Start car and run for a few seconds then shut down
Repeat three times.
Finished, Go driving

The part is about $27, get the real INA part.

 

wow that sounds too easy