Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain broken crank pulley

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Old 07-22-2010, 08:32 AM
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broken crank pulley

I was sitting at the red light yesterday when I heard a loud pop and then my battery light and trunk light came on and a few seconds later my car started overheating and my entire dash was lit up...I pulled off the side of the road and seen my belt had broken, well turns out that my entire crank pulley came apart half of it is still on the car and half of it where the belt goes is broken off. I bought the new OEM pulley from MINI today but I was just wondering what the special tool is to get the crank pulley off and put the new one on? if its a hard job? and if someone has the steps to do it. Im not sure if theirs a key that needs to be in place to keep the timing or cams in place?
 
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:35 AM
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The pulley and timing are independent. This thread should help.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...oem-tools.html

or this:RA Removing and installing or replacing vibration damper (COOPER S).pdf
 

Last edited by Oxybluecoop; 07-22-2010 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:36 AM
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There's no key for the pulley. Removal takes a puller, but you have to have something to press against, like a long bolt into the crankshaft. Just be careful to not strip the thread out of the pulley, cause it will be real hard to get off if that happens.

Also check out our ATI damper for a replacement, it's just a bit lighter and will last longer.
 
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:53 AM
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so what holds the cams in place? just sticking a long bolt? i wish i would have known about that ATI damper, i just bought the OEM though.
 
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:54 AM
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is the job a hard job? im a girl, i was going to have my friend come help me hes a honda mechanic though
 
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:11 AM
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It's not a hard job once you get the pulley moving off of the crank. There is a gear on your crankshaft and a gear on your cam with a chain connecting the two internally. That's why you don't have to worry about the position of the pulley.
 
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:28 AM
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It's not a hard job once you get the pulley moving off of the crank. There is a gear on your crankshaft and a gear on your cam with a chain connecting the two internally. That's why you don't have to worry about the position of the pulley.
 
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Old 07-22-2010, 06:57 PM
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ok i have a question once you loosen the bolt on the crank is everything locked into place automatically or do i have to worry about the gears moving and coming off timing? or what can i use to lock the motor into place if so?
 
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Old 07-22-2010, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by boostdmini
once you loosen the bolt on the crank is everything locked into place automatically
The crank is connected to the timing chain internally. You won't affect the timing by anything you do to the belt on the outside.
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 04:13 AM
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You need to go to your local auto parts store and rent a puller. It's usually free with a refundable deposit. You may also need to go to your local hardware store to buy a long bolt with the correct threading because those pullers usually don't have the correct size bolt for your crank. Make sure you get the right thread, you don't want to mess up the threads on your crank.
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:33 AM
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what thread do i need
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:49 AM
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If you follow the first link that Oxybluecoop posted at the beginning of this thread you will get all the information you need to swap your pulley. I found this link very helpful when my factory pulley broke in half as well.

The thread pitch is 1.75, I think. Just to be sure, you should remove the factory crank bolt and bring it with you so you get the right one.
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:51 AM
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i did but i didn't understand very well because he was talking about cutting bolts down to size ect.
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:51 AM
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so do the crank pulleys breaking in half happen often?
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 07:14 AM
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Yes, it's very common. Those pulleys have a rubber damper center that gets old and weak and eventually fails. I replaced mine with an ATI Super damper from WMW.

Just use that link as a guide. I didn't buy the rods and cut them down either. Once you remove your crank bolt you can bring it with you to use as a reference for sizing. Your mechanic friend will know all of this as well.
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 07:40 AM
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he wants to know if turning the engine on to crack the bolt loose will mess up the timing he's trying to step on the brake and crack the bolt lose while having the car in gear but its not working its still turning
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 07:59 AM
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I've never heard of trying it that way but I really wouldn't recommend it. Just put the tranny in 6th gear and apply the brakes hard. You will break it loose that way.
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 09:49 AM
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ok i got the bolt loose, i went to autozone and the guy saidhe didnt have a damper puller big enough to fit that bolt size? sooo any suggestions?
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:53 AM
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Autozone should have a generic pulley puller. Looks like a Chicken foot cost about 15 bucks. May need to ask for a steering wheel puller.
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:57 AM
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Is that the only auto parts place around you. Just about all of the have tool rentals. BTW that crank pulley is actually pretty small. Did you ask Autozone if the center hole is big enough for a 12mm bolt? It should be.
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 12:03 PM
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Now that I think of it, any three prong puller will work. Just make sure to buy a longer crank bolt to push against. Read that link again and you'll see what I mean. The three bolts that connect to the pulley itself are 6mm.
 
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Old 07-23-2010, 12:09 PM
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You wouldn't happen to live in central FL, would you? If so I can help.
 
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