Drivetrain OBX ATB Diff, Clutch, and Cam
#1
03-04-2008, 06:13 PM
OBX ATB Diff, Clutch, and Cam
I've got an OBX ATB differential for my daily driver/odd autocrosser on order. I got a super deal on a phantom grip kit from a NAM member but I'm opting for the ATB diff instead. I'm too scared of having my diff pin pop etc.
I'm going to pull the motor/trans this spring and while I'm there I'll install at least a clutch kit perhaps a lighter flywheel. While the motor is out I'm going to pop in an Ultrik cam too. I'll post some pics while I do the swapping. Any suggestions on uprated clutch kits and/or flywheels? Thanks!
Jeremy
I'm going to pull the motor/trans this spring and while I'm there I'll install at least a clutch kit perhaps a lighter flywheel. While the motor is out I'm going to pop in an Ultrik cam too. I'll post some pics while I do the swapping. Any suggestions on uprated clutch kits and/or flywheels? Thanks!
Jeremy
#4
03-05-2008, 09:35 PM
I'm going to retain my stock flywheel(should not need resurfacing I hope) and spend the extra $500+ bucks on a lighter flywheel and backing plate for my turbo mini traveler restoration instead. I've yet to find a kit with an uprated disc and slightly higher sprung pressure plate that will work with the stock flywheel. Is that an option or am I stuck with OEM stuff?
Has anybody tried either of these LUK OEM clutch kit part #'s? Apparently they both work for the MCS up to a production date of 07-00-04. So what's the difference?
W0133-1665878
W0133-1665877
My Cooper S has an Oct 2003 build date. Thanks!
Jeremy
Has anybody tried either of these LUK OEM clutch kit part #'s? Apparently they both work for the MCS up to a production date of 07-00-04. So what's the difference?
W0133-1665878
W0133-1665877
My Cooper S has an Oct 2003 build date. Thanks!
Jeremy
#5
03-06-2008, 06:38 PM
#6
03-09-2008, 12:08 PM
Ok I'm still flip flopping around with the flywheel and clutch set-up. 
I found that JSC Speed has some decent pricing on flywheels and clutch kits. I've fired off an email to RMW regarding their clutch masters flywheels/clutch kits. The last thing I want to see is an iffy stock flywheel friction surface and me only having on hand an OEM clutch kit. We'll see....
I'm off to strip the OBX down now.
Jeremy
I found that JSC Speed has some decent pricing on flywheels and clutch kits. I've fired off an email to RMW regarding their clutch masters flywheels/clutch kits. The last thing I want to see is an iffy stock flywheel friction surface and me only having on hand an OEM clutch kit. We'll see....I'm off to strip the OBX down now.
Jeremy
#7
03-09-2008, 07:57 PM
I've corresponded with Jan at RMW and I'm leaning towards a clutch masters set-up for the upcoming diff/clutch/flywheel swap. His pricing is indeed attractive. 
After hanging with my girlfriend this afternoon, I managed to strip down and take a peek at the OBX ATB diff components. See pics below.
2 out of 9 cap bolts(M8 40mm by 1.25) where not @ 30 ft/lbs. 1 freed-up @ 29 and the last freed-up @ 33. I started @ 25 and worked my way around in a cross pattern. I went up in 1 ft/lbs increments. The last @ 33 could have been sticking due to the sprung force from the 7 belleville washers tipping the diff housing.
1 of 7 Belleville washers has a tiny cut edge.
Both output gears are chamfered on front and machined on backside to allow install/removal of half shafts.
The only thing of minor concern to me are the trans fluid oil ways. I will drill/file them out to allow for full fluid movement.
Jeremy
After hanging with my girlfriend this afternoon, I managed to strip down and take a peek at the OBX ATB diff components. See pics below.
2 out of 9 cap bolts(M8 40mm by 1.25) where not @ 30 ft/lbs. 1 freed-up @ 29 and the last freed-up @ 33. I started @ 25 and worked my way around in a cross pattern. I went up in 1 ft/lbs increments. The last @ 33 could have been sticking due to the sprung force from the 7 belleville washers tipping the diff housing.
1 of 7 Belleville washers has a tiny cut edge.
Both output gears are chamfered on front and machined on backside to allow install/removal of half shafts.
The only thing of minor concern to me are the trans fluid oil ways. I will drill/file them out to allow for full fluid movement.
Jeremy
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#10
03-11-2008, 05:00 PM
I've yet to install the diff. I'll post a bunch of pics when I pull my motor and do the clutch, cam and diff. I'll slip in a new tensioner and thermostat while the motor's out too. 
I've asked Crrikey if he had 7 belleville washers installed from the OBX factory too; along with their condition. He's doing a clutch/flywheel/OBX lsd install currently.
I passed on all sizing of my hardware to Rbryant. He is looking into stocking socket head cap bolts and belleville washers for us MINI owners that try the OBX ATB diff.
Jeremy
I've asked Crrikey if he had 7 belleville washers installed from the OBX factory too; along with their condition. He's doing a clutch/flywheel/OBX lsd install currently.
I passed on all sizing of my hardware to Rbryant. He is looking into stocking socket head cap bolts and belleville washers for us MINI owners that try the OBX ATB diff.
Jeremy
#11
03-11-2008, 05:10 PM
#12
03-11-2008, 05:34 PM
Yeah Matt I think I will. I'll just have to refresh more of my oldie Mini parts in my basement and sell em off for $$$ for my(and my dad's) 1961 turbo mini wagon build.
You went with the ACT clutch/flywheel and Quaife diff as per MC2 magazine. How many resurfaces can you get out of that ACT flywheel(if you're mistreating it)? And are you loving that diff or what?
Jeremy
You went with the ACT clutch/flywheel and Quaife diff as per MC2 magazine. How many resurfaces can you get out of that ACT flywheel(if you're mistreating it)? And are you loving that diff or what?
Jeremy
#13
03-12-2008, 06:58 PM
My obx had 7 washers and one with a chip slightly larger than yours. I only put 6 washers back in. I was more concerned with the chipped washer braking and the lack of washer symmetry (7), than the small amount of prelaoad it would of addded. I don't know if makes a difference t have it in.
#14
03-12-2008, 07:09 PM
My obx had 7 washers and one with a chip slightly larger than yours. I only put 6 washers back in. I was more concerned with the chipped washer braking and the lack of washer symmetry (7), than the small amount of prelaoad it would of addded. I don't know if makes a difference t have it in.
Don't worry about the stack, they will sit just fine in the retainer with the ()()()( configuration.
-Rich
#15
03-12-2008, 08:32 PM
Ok CRRIKEY is getting his OBX this Friday and he's going to do a belleville washer count/looksie for us to compare.
I've priced out a few other parts for this job through my local MINI Service Shop:
Thermostat. $49.
Thermostat housing gasket. inc
Transmission output flange seals. $20
Rear main oil seal. $34.
Differential tapered roller bearings. $25 ea x2
Valve cover gasket. $20
Service position hood prop extension tools. BMW tool # 51 2 160. no price listing for those, I have them and don't use them, not necessary
Camshaft locking tool. BMW tool # 11 8 250. $176.
$49 Canadian Dollars for a freaking thermostat!!! At least the gasket is included! What's this world coming to.
My camshaft arrives this Friday along with an exhaust manifold gasket. The only thing left is to finalize my clutch/flywheel arrangement.
Jeremy
I've priced out a few other parts for this job through my local MINI Service Shop:
Thermostat. $49.
Thermostat housing gasket. inc
Transmission output flange seals. $20
Rear main oil seal. $34.
Differential tapered roller bearings. $25 ea x2
Valve cover gasket. $20
Service position hood prop extension tools. BMW tool # 51 2 160. no price listing for those, I have them and don't use them, not necessary
Camshaft locking tool. BMW tool # 11 8 250. $176.
$49 Canadian Dollars for a freaking thermostat!!! At least the gasket is included! What's this world coming to.
My camshaft arrives this Friday along with an exhaust manifold gasket. The only thing left is to finalize my clutch/flywheel arrangement.
Jeremy
Last edited by jhiggs26; 03-13-2008 at 05:29 PM. Reason: Size/font issue with copy/pasting procedure. haha
#16
03-12-2008, 09:40 PM
Make sure that the washers have preload... If both came with 7 then perhaps they need that many. The dodge OBX units are starting to come with 5 and don't seem to even fit 6 while others need 6 washers (and they all used to come with 6)...
Don't worry about the stack, they will sit just fine in the retainer with the ()()()( configuration.
-Rich
Don't worry about the stack, they will sit just fine in the retainer with the ()()()( configuration.
-Rich
Note that there will be little if any difference in spacing when using this stacking method, ))()()( compared to your suggested ()()()(. The effective unloaded length is virtually the same. The former appearing to me to be more stable as the latter looks like the two left washers could easily unseat and/or crack each other. Perhaps, how ours came to be missing chunks. That was more of a concern to me than the 1mm of extra space.
These are just my opinions and I haven't put a huge amount research behind it, but I thought I should share why I chose to do it that way. If I install new washers, I may add one more.
I am curious to see how other installs turn out. Good luck to you all.
#18
03-13-2008, 08:30 AM
There was plenty of preload, so I went with my gut. Your picture of the washers may look like there is a significant amount of spacing lost without the left most washer, but it is only the outer edges of the washers that touch sun gears. So, the extra washer only adds the distance of the thickness of one washer to the stack.
Note that there will be little if any difference in spacing when using this stacking method, ))()()( compared to your suggested ()()()(. The effective unloaded length is virtually the same. The former appearing to me to be more stable as the latter looks like the two left washers could easily unseat and/or crack each other. Perhaps, how ours came to be missing chunks. That was more of a concern to me than the 1mm of extra space.
These are just my opinions and I haven't put a huge amount research behind it, but I thought I should share why I chose to do it that way. If I install new washers, I may add one more.
I am curious to see how other installs turn out. Good luck to you all.
Note that there will be little if any difference in spacing when using this stacking method, ))()()( compared to your suggested ()()()(. The effective unloaded length is virtually the same. The former appearing to me to be more stable as the latter looks like the two left washers could easily unseat and/or crack each other. Perhaps, how ours came to be missing chunks. That was more of a concern to me than the 1mm of extra space.
These are just my opinions and I haven't put a huge amount research behind it, but I thought I should share why I chose to do it that way. If I install new washers, I may add one more.
I am curious to see how other installs turn out. Good luck to you all.
Either way even if you don't get them from me replace those washers.
Take note of the top picture that someone sent me of how they arrived for them:
These were how the washers were before they ever even installed the diff....
-Rich
#19
03-14-2008, 06:05 PM
I ordered a CM aluminium flywheel and FX200 clutch kit from RMW yesterday.
Here are a few pics of the Ultrik camshaft that showed up yesterday. 1st pic is of the dual intake lobes for cylinder #1. 2nd pic is of the wide single exhaust lobes of cylinder #1 and #2. The last pic is of the intake/exhaust overlap on cylinder #2.
Jeremy
Here are a few pics of the Ultrik camshaft that showed up yesterday. 1st pic is of the dual intake lobes for cylinder #1. 2nd pic is of the wide single exhaust lobes of cylinder #1 and #2. The last pic is of the intake/exhaust overlap on cylinder #2.
Jeremy
#21
03-14-2008, 07:22 PM
#22
03-14-2008, 08:53 PM
I used an assembly lube
It's a bit gooier and I didn't know how long it would take to do the job.
I also just used 6th gear with the brake applied. But unless your legs are long, you'll need a buddy to press the brake. I had my wife do it, she's nice that way...
The pain is the tensioner piston. I did take it out of the block, and getting that cover bolt loose was a royat PITA. I though my socket had busted. I used a belt tensioner tool with a bunch of blue tape on it to release the piston, but other have said that oil pressure will do it on it's own.
Matt
I also just used 6th gear with the brake applied. But unless your legs are long, you'll need a buddy to press the brake. I had my wife do it, she's nice that way...
The pain is the tensioner piston. I did take it out of the block, and getting that cover bolt loose was a royat PITA. I though my socket had busted. I used a belt tensioner tool with a bunch of blue tape on it to release the piston, but other have said that oil pressure will do it on it's own.
Matt
#23
03-15-2008, 08:16 AM
It's a bit gooier and I didn't know how long it would take to do the job.
I also just used 6th gear with the brake applied. But unless your legs are long, you'll need a buddy to press the brake. I had my wife do it, she's nice that way...
The pain is the tensioner piston. I did take it out of the block, and getting that cover bolt loose was a royat PITA. I though my socket had busted. I used a belt tensioner tool with a bunch of blue tape on it to release the piston, but other have said that oil pressure will do it on it's own.
Matt
I also just used 6th gear with the brake applied. But unless your legs are long, you'll need a buddy to press the brake. I had my wife do it, she's nice that way...
The pain is the tensioner piston. I did take it out of the block, and getting that cover bolt loose was a royat PITA. I though my socket had busted. I used a belt tensioner tool with a bunch of blue tape on it to release the piston, but other have said that oil pressure will do it on it's own.
Matt
Jeremy
#24
03-26-2008, 05:52 PM
