I've been kicking this project back and forth with DrPhil about how to lower the IATs that we have measured with a ScanGauge II.
We both agreed that if the manifold was exposed to some of the air coming through the grille, that would help to dissipate the heat that would normally soak into the manifold.
While aluminum is pretty good at dissipating heat, the intake manifold is pretty much getting cooked with the supercharger and water pump directly underneath it, and the upper radiator hose running right in front of it. Not to mention the heat transfer from the cylinder head.
I think DrPhil said it best with this statement,
"All the work we've done to cool the air intake with CAIs and fancy ICs is being undone at the manifold just before the air enters the cylinders."
I was looking at the top of the radiator shroud where the hood seal is, trying to see if there was a way to trim it to allow more air in to the front of the manifold. There is really no "nice" way to do it, so I decided to trim it all off...
...as you can see, the radiator hose runs right in front of the manifold, pretty much pre-heating the air coming through the grille.
While I did see quite an improvement in the IATs, as well as very quick recovery after getting off the boost, I had to do something about the hose placement/routing.
So I backed off the two clamps in the pic as well as the one at the radiator, and rotated the hose down away from the front of the manifold...
...the plexiglass(clear acrylic?) is experimental, but I needed to put something there to keep the hose from rubbing on the manifold. It was easy to cut and drill so I could fit it and rivet it to the shroud. The next piece will obviously not be riveted so I can get to the bleeder if I need to.
I have had no difference in coolant temp running the hose this way.
After all this, I am now seeing consistant
single digit differences between ambient and IAT while cruising on the highway, sometimes as low as 5 degrees.
Another bonus is getting more air in from the front helps push the hot air out the back.
I realize this is not for everybody, so take it as you will.
Please disregard the rusted bolts on the DFIC diverter, they are NOT the ones that M7 supplies, and will be replaced.
EDIT:
The revised version...
EDIT: The revised version 2...
EDIT: The revised version 3...
